Bring your dancing shoes! and your finger strength. This sequential, beta intensive masterpiece will have you on your toes and bearing down on tiny crimps from the first bolt to the chains. I would describe most of the holds as heinous, but they aren't even that good. Enjoy this Southern "Slab" every move is a gem.
This is the first route directly right of the Dihedrals area and two routes left of the classic "Pillsbury." While your boyfriend is working on his first 5.9 you can show him how to climb with some technique and finesse.
6 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Bring a stick clip or use the resident dead tree as the first bolt is way up there and the tiny crimps start immediately.
|By Blake Allen Green|
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
This route was graded 13a in the old guidebook, and I think the reason for the discrepancy is that many people trend right at the first couple of bolts, using a large flake feature. While I don't think this is "off route" in any contrived sense, I do think the bolt placement makes it apparent the FA wanted the line to go straight up through the first three bolts. That being said, going straight up also adds more difficult slab moves and more crimps and foot sequences similar to the rest of the route, and actually climbs much better than deviating right. This direct beta makes the route more sustained for sure, and you have to get more back at the rest. Also, to me, this route feels more than one grade harder than Proposition # 1. The crux at the end is super hard and pretty low percentage.