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Kidogo Kidogo T 
O.A.F. (One and Fun) T,TR 

Kidogo Kidogo 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ian McHenry (FFA Marshall Burke)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 426
Submitted By: Ian McHenry on Jan 23, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Squeezing up the off width just below the chimney

Must walk through farmers' plots MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Obvious, lone crack on big boulder on the right, visible from approach. This boulder is split in two with another project crack in the narrows of the split. Crack starts with small finger crack, then moves diagonally up right as crack widens to fist and bigger than fist size and overhangs slightly. This section was clean aided pulling on #3 and #4 cams on FA. Crack straightens at nice, sling-able flake and continues up and widens for 15 ft (#4 and #5 cams). Then, turns into tiny squeeze chimney (approx 18 in wide) that has a tiny knob you can sling half way up, but would be better with a #4 or #5 Big Bro. Chimney is approximately 20 ft before topping out. Single bolt with rap ring. Also, a decent chock stone that can be slinged to rappel onto project route. Bolt is Fixe Hardware 3/8" x 3", but 1cm of threads still showing. Should be plenty solid but could be replaced if the route ever gets serious traffic. Route sent free by Marshall Burke at 5.10b

Location 

Obvious, lone crack on big boulder on the right, visible from approach. Descent is a rappel from single bolt and rap ring or sling chockstone and rappel face.

Protection 

Doubles from #2-#5. Some 0.4-1 cams for first 30 ft. Big bro #4 or #5 for squeeze chimney. Single bolt with ring at top for rap descent.


Photos of Kidogo Kidogo Slideshow Add Photo
Start of route.  Flake is where the crack meets the obvious black water mark.
BETA PHOTO: Start of route. Flake is where the crack meets th...

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By Ian McHenry
Jan 23, 2011

Marshall Burke was able to send the crux overhanging, diagonal fist crack free at 5.10b and I followed. Route felt even better free, though doubles are definitely needed for #2-#4, with only one #5 that you can walk up above the flake until the chimney.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Dec 22, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1 PG13

Nice Shade!
Nice Shade!

The crux was slightly wide hands.
The crux was slightly wide hands.

Inside the hand-jamming section was biggest bat I've ever seen on a climb. After I asked nicely, the bat shuffled back a bit to make room for my hands (no hanging!).
Lowering back into shade after drilling in the Equatorial sun.
Lowering back into shade after drilling in the Equatorial sun.

Be warned; I forgot a wrench and lowered off loose bolts.