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 ADVANCED
The North End
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Be Sharp Or B Flat T 
Big Plum (the Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge), The T 
Bird's Nest T 
Childs Play T 
Exiles in Babylon T,S 
Generation X T,TR 
Jack The Ripper T 
Kiddy Crack T 
Knights in White Satin S 
Liger, The T 
Mantleshelf Problem T 
Merrill's Variation T 
Possessed, The T 
Post Mortem T,S 
Raising The Roof T 
Recluse T 
Recluse Traverse T 
Roof aka The Corner, The T 
Slot, The T 
They Died Laughing T 
Thresher T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Kiddy Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Anderson, October 27, 1972
Page Views: 2,901
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on Jan 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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Courtney begining the route

Description 

Lieback the polished crack to a ledge halfway up. The crux comes early. Follow the upper crack to the tree that is the rap anchor.

Location 

The route starts in a small right-facing corner. This is the right most route at the North End (or Practice Slab). Park near the gate for the road to the top and follow the trail uphill.

Protection 

Gear to 1 inch.


Photos of Kiddy Crack Slideshow Add Photo
A fun moderate climb with a hard start....
BETA PHOTO: A fun moderate climb with a hard start....
the fun lieback
the fun lieback

Comments on Kiddy Crack Add Comment
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By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 2, 2009

i liked this route but the beginning finger locks were a little tricky
By Tim Wolsonovich
From: Boston
Sep 19, 2010

Low crux was real tough for me. Took me 3 tries to get started, then some easy climbing after that. Learned the OK finger jam that day.
By Evan1984
Jun 4, 2011

This is a good, fun route to warm up or wind down on. The lieback start is a somewhat thuggish crux, but good technique makes it over quickly. After the little ledge, thoughtful climbing takes you to the top.

PLEASE- protect the start before you set off. A slip on the start will have you falling either ankle or tailbone first into a nice pointed rock at the base. A .75 BD Camalot can very easily be placed high in the lieback crack from a stance before you set off. Keep a tight belay and you're good to go.
By Alexander Smith
From: boston,mass
Jul 8, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good route, overall. The beginning I did not find difficult, just figure jam! The upper bit I found to be a tougher, probably because it was so dirty. All about trusting your feet on dirty, mossy rock.
By Franzalopolis
From: Mass.
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Small finger jam fun. Lead this only using nuts and tricams for fun.
By Derek Jf
From: Onset, MA
Jun 25, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

that runout start is safe climbing for the experienced leader. Only protect if you are learning how to lead on crack climbs - this will feel much harder than what you think is 5.7
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
Aug 19, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Lieback if you dare. My partner, an experienced crack climber and trad leader, popped out of the crux due to the super-polished nature of the left side of the crack. Lots of feet on both faces.