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Kid Goat Buttress

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Grey Waves S 
Keel Haul Wall T 

Kid Goat Buttress 


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: ihategrigris on Mar 19, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: Kid Goat as seen from the approach trail in June 2...
Old access crosses private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Kid Goat has several single pitch and multi pitch sport routes as well as a few classic trad routes. The rock type is limestone of moderate to poor quality, though the trade routes are typically of very high quality. Climbing is best on Sunday when the dump is shut down, otherwise it can be very loud while climbing.

The longest routes are 6 pitches long and come in at ~200 meters. The wall is a great place to try limestone, trad climbing before moving on to Yam. The wall is east-facing and gets plenty of morning sun. It takes longer to dry then Yamnuska, try from April on.


Getting There 

From Highway 1 take the turn off for Exshaw, same turn off you take to Yamnuska. Drive north to the T-intersection and turn west. 2 min down the road there will be a parking lot on the left hand side and a dump on the right hand side. Park here. Hike around the west side of the dump until you hit a series of old loggig roads. Trend generally to the gully between kid goat and nannny goat, watching for a cairn on the left hand side. Turn up the hill at the cairn and climb up to the wall. The trail will lead to the sport routes on the northeast end of Kid Goat wall.


Climbing Season


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kid Goat Buttress:
Keel Haul Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     Trad, 6 pitches, 500'   
Grey Waves   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 5 pitches, 500'   
Browse More Classics in Kid Goat Buttress

Featured Route For Kid Goat Buttress
Looking up pitch 3. watch the rope drag on this pitch, as the route traverses to the right then heads straight up through the roof.  I would either not place a draw on right bolt(the one on the bottom), as there is another one a 2 meters a above it, or use long draws on both of the bolts that start and finish the traverse.

Grey Waves 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13  North America : Canada : ... : Kid Goat Buttress
This beautiful route is a classic 5.8 sport route. Cool moves, excellent rock, and great exposure define this route. Pitch 1 (5.8 - 50m) - Climb up an arrete then out onto the face. Pass at possibly belay at 20m. Cross three overhangs to the belay station (shared with Keel Haul Wall), the second overhang is the toughest. Pitch 2 (5.8 - 25m) - ignore the bolt on the overhang to the right; this belongs to KHW; instead move stright up from the belay past two fixed pins and a pos...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Kid Goat Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Keel Haul and Grey Waves topo.  Just FYI, I climbed the first half of Grey Waves and finished on Keel Haul from where they cross, so that is more accurate than the reverse, which is pretty close to accurate
BETA PHOTO: Keel Haul and Grey Waves topo. Just FYI, I climbe...
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