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82 Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Reduction T 
Block Party T 
Crimp Chimp T 
Dirty Duo, The T 
Kid Charlemagne S 
Politics of Dancing, The S 
Truffle Hog T 
War on Drugs T 
Year of the Dog T 

Kid Charlemagne 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Derrek Anderson Fall 2010
Page Views: 725
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jun 17, 2011

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  • Description 

    On the far right end of the big wall section resides "Kid Charlemagne". The route starts with a difficult boulder problem past the first two bolts, then continues past another 6 bolts, several more technical sections, and a fantastic finish through somewhat hollow, but fun flakes/pinches and quartz knobs. A hefty two-bolt rap station awaits you at the top of this pitch.

    This technical pitch also gives the climber a more aesthetic option (rather than the scrappy 5.6 to the right) to access one of the best pitches on the big wall section, "War on Drugs".

    Location 

    far right end of the big wall section where the narrow climbers' trail begins to ascend steeply uphill.

    Protection 

    bolts


    Comments on Kid Charlemagne Add Comment
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    By Matt Salter
    Jun 18, 2011

    Chris, I am hoping you meant 10a....
    By Chris Duca
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jun 18, 2011

    Really? 10a? Either I've become extreme weak, or you're climbing the wrong route. This thing definitely felt WAY harder than any 10a on the cliff. Am I missing something here, guys, or did I just not drink the Kool-Aid like the rest of you?
    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    I think you must have missed something, Chris! There's a low .10a crux just off the ground, then it's pretty cruiser 5.9ish climbing for a few bolts before another brief crux bulge, then a bit more moderate ground to the anchor. Are you sure you're not referring to the direct start to Arms Reduction? If you do that straight up to the first bolt rather than traversing in, I could believe 5.11.
    By Matt Salter
    Jun 18, 2011

    Sorry Chris, I am with Derek on this one. There is no way that thing is even approaching 11a. I even hesitated to go 10a on it as I feel that it is easier than the other 10a's on the cliff.
    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 18, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Yeah, get back on it, Chris. I bet you just missed a hold somewhere. It's still pretty dirty after all. I actually had to argue DA up to .10a when I climbed the route this spring. He was vacillating between .8+ and .9 right after he put it up! Now THAT seemed a bit over the top...
    By Colin R
    From: Ottawa, ON
    Jun 28, 2011

    Isn't Kid Charlemagne a Steely Dan song?
    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 28, 2011
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Indeed. It's the lead track on the mega classic The Royal Scam.
    By Chris Duca
    From: Havertown, PA
    Jul 25, 2011

    really, Derek (Anderson)?--5.7+...now I know you're drinking the Kool-Aid, as well!
    By Derrek Anderson
    From: Montpelier, VT
    Jul 26, 2011
    rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Doucet has the right idea... its all a Royal Scam... 5.7 just to even things out;)
    By burlap submariner
    Sep 27, 2011

    Kid charlemange is a steely dan tune. Its about Owlsley Stanley, one of the first US born major LSD manufacturers. He also Built most of the sound equiptment for the Grateful Dead and designed the iconic "steal your face" logo.
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