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Kicking It Old Testament S 
Little Viking S 
Pork Swords S 

Kicking It Old Testament 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Daniel Trugman, Jason Halladay, August 2010
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Aug 3, 2010

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Description 

This route climbs the east face of Juno Tower, climber's right of "Pork Swords" and "Little Viking". While it's probably not quite as good as the other two routes on the tower, "Kicking It Old Testament" still provides some intriguing movement at a more moderate grade.

For the first ascent we started by anchoring the belayer to the belay bolt on the grassy ledge below the obvious headwall. We later decided just going straight up, from ground-level, up vegetated fourth-class terrain to the base of the wall is best.

Easily turn the initial roof on its left side and make a technical traverse back right on thin holds. Find the jugs and rest up before firing the steeper but well-featured upper crux.

This route could use a bit more scrubbing, especially on the lower half of the route (I'll try to do some more next time I'm in the area). That said, the rock is pretty solid, and moves are fun, so if you can deal with a bit of lichen, then the route is worth trying.

Location 

The east face of Juno Tower. The bolt line adjacent to and climber's right of "Little Viking". Approach the belay via a narrow grassy ramp.

Protection 

5 bolts to chains with fixed carabiners (don't steal these!).

1 belay bolt on the starting ledge.


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By Lee H.
From: Overland Park, KS
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route was enjoyable on TR. I'm looking forward to leading it. Thanks for the addition guys. I thought the rock was solid, while a bit dirty, but that's Area 37 for you. Keep an eye out for the stinging nettle near the belay bolt (was only an issue when there was traffic on the narrow ledge). Lowering the leader to the ground and belaying any top roping followers from the ground might be something to consider. Not sure what kind of interference the trees would cause, if any.
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Once a long time ago before the route was bolted, I was going to put it up so that it would have taken the line at the bottom to the left of the fourth class vegetated ramp and up the steeper, cleaner rock rock with a little cleaning. I think it would add to the quality and the grade consistency of the route. Daniel and Jason, would you mind if I went ahead and did this upgrade to the route? It would be better than belaying from an unnecessary single bolt. When I did it, I climbed the fourth class ramp to the high first bolt. It gave the route an unaesthetic feel, thus detracting from the quality of the climb.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 9, 2013

Go for it, as far as I'm concerned! Thanks for asking, and for offering to improve the route.

Daniel
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 9, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Good thoughts, Scott. In subsequent climbs of the route, I've just climbed the fourth class vegetation to get to the real climbing instead of using the belay bolt we used initially. I recommend the 4th class action over the belay bolt and think the belay bolt might as well be removed.
I don't recall what the rock to the left of the 4th class vegetation looked like but if it climbs nicely into the route, that's great and it should be established. Have at it. I've never been a fan of the idea that only the FA team has complete say over the rock...that's a bit silly and an out-dated ethic, especially concerning moderate sport routes.