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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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Verschneidung 
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Wild Turkey 
Wingshot 
Wishbone 

Kickin' Chicken 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Wayne Crill, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,561
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Nov 6, 2005
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Kickin' Chicken 5 of 5. Photo by Rob Kepley.

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This spectacular route has steep, fun climbing on mostly good rock with great position overlooking the creek and the Milton Boulder. I use a severity/spiciness rating based upon hot chilies with three grades: i) Jalapeno is serious enough to require attention and can easily burn you if not careful; ii) Habanero is the famously hot pepper that can easily spoil one's day if not treated with proper respect; and iii) The Peruvian Rocoto pepper is the spiciest and most flavorful of the hot peppers, failure to overcome the associated risks will be regretful. I think the Chicken is a Jalepeno spicy route, with the added intro bolts. Were it not for some crumblies in the roofs, I, and others who have been on it would consider this route four star worthy.

Kickin' Chicken climbs the obvious crack system moving up and left through the roofs right of Wingshot and left of Wild Turkey in the amphitheater/alcove area at the bottom of the West Ridge. The route climbs the initial 40' of Wild Turkey then moves left through the large roofs to access the steep crack continuing for 40' more up and left to the ridgeline. From the alcove at the base of Blues Power and Wingshot, follow the ledge/break below the blocky magenta band ~ 40' right to a small exposed ledge, the turkey perch, overlooking the creek where Wild Turkey and Wishbone start. It is a good idea to set a belay here.

Climb the first 40' of Wild Turkey (5.11-) past four bolts added after the FA, to the underclings below Wild Turkey's crux bulge. Hang a long sling here and instead of climbing straight up over this bulge (as for WT), move left around the bulge and then up through an exciting boulder problem to access the left-angling crack system. Continue up and left with small cams along the steep crack to tricky moves escaping onto the headwall, then up 20 more feet of nice 5.8 in L.-facing dihedral to the ridgeline topout. A difficult to place nut (fixed) protects the boulder problem crux as you leave the bolts of Wild Turkey en route to the well protected crack proper.

It is very difficult to top rope this route because of the left angling nature of the line. However, if one wishes, a natural toprope anchor can easily be placed 20' below the ridgline in the crack just above the roofs at the bottom of the headwall. However a RP ascent should definately continue to the ridgeline as the last couple moves around the corner out of the roof and onto the headwall can be quite tricky when pumped! ENJOY!


Protection 

Gear: nuts, micro cams, gear to 2", one 3' extendable sling, 4 quickdraws.



Photos of Kickin' Chicken Slideshow Add Photo
Josh totally committed.
Josh totally committed.
Wayne Crill and Kevin Gallagher during the FA or an early attempt on Kickin' Chicken.  <br /> <br />Photo: L. Di Scipio.
Wayne Crill and Kevin Gallagher during the FA or a...
Kickin' Chicken 4 of 5.  Photo by Rob Kepley.
Kickin' Chicken 4 of 5. Photo by Rob Kepley.
Getting ready to place the rivet hanger and draw over the `80's era bashed in and hangerless mammut bolt 35' up WT, the first piece of drilled protection during the original `06 ascent. <br /> <br />Photo: L. Di Scipio.
Getting ready to place the rivet hanger and draw o...
Kickin' Chicken 2 of 5.  Photo by Rob Kepley.
Kickin' Chicken 2 of 5. Photo by Rob Kepley.
Scott entering the business.
Scott entering the business.
Wayne Crill on Kickin' Chicken, photo: Bob Horan.
Wayne Crill on Kickin' Chicken, photo: Bob Horan.
Kickin' Chicken 3 of 5.  Photo by Rob Kepley.
Kickin' Chicken 3 of 5. Photo by Rob Kepley.
Kickin' Chicken 1 of 5.  Photo by Rob Kepley.
Kickin' Chicken 1 of 5. Photo by Rob Kepley.
Approaching the current position of bolt #3 during the FA. <br /> <br />Photo: L Di Scipio.
Approaching the current position of bolt #3 ...
The second piece of gear in the wild turkey into to kickin' chicken during the FA, prior to the bolts. <br /> <br />Photo: L Di Scipio.
The second piece of gear in the wild turkey into t...
Comments on Kickin' Chicken Add Comment
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By Josh Janes
Feb 2, 2010

How dangerous is this route if the fixed wire blows?

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Feb 2, 2010

If you are committed during the crux and the nut blows. Have your favorite belayer real in slack as you pick up your feet to miss the slab. What a whipper, but you should be OK, Good Lord willing.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Feb 2, 2010

I was working this thing a couple years ago in the fall. I came back in the spring to try it again and it appeared that the nut had shifted down further to the bottom opening of the slot. I feel it will most likely blow sometime if fallen on. I took a couple big rides on it too. Listen to what Hank says...yikes! Otherwise, it's a totally bitchn' route! Josh, I'll go up there with ya.

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Feb 3, 2010

Hmm, well there are many objective hazards and variables involved in estimating "how dangerous is it if the fixed nut blows". Most important (obviously!), is how far above it are you. I can tell you this, when I was originally working the route I was wicked pumped after the crux at the "stance" before moving left to the crack proper and I fell there trying to fiddle in gear. No worries as I fell onto the nut and of course it held. It was a nice fall well above any ledges, no worries.

Next run I decided to hell with that gear at that stance, I'll just keep cranking L up to the crack proper where the big jugs and the bomber gear is. As I was placing a cam in that crack, my foot slipped and I took a 30+ footer bringing me down to the first piece of original gear (a pink tricam ~ at bolt #2 height now). Big, penduluming fall still ~ 10' above the belay ledge but getting close.

SO, I feel that if you were just past the crux, at the *finger tip jug stance* where there is a micro cam at your L shoulder, and a nut just a little lower left that (both within reach, I believe Hank used the nut, not the cam, I have used the cam in all ascents) and you were to fall from here and the nut popped, I think you would take a fall similar to the big one I describe above. I believe with an attentive belayer it shouldn't be a problem.

Therefore, I reccommend not moving past this stance until you have gear because if you fell above and L, close to the crack proper and the nut blew you would be looking at a potential 40+ foot ledge fall.

Rob, I moved that nut about 2 yrs ago specifically because the placement it was in was a little friable and I moved it about 1-2 inches down the angling crack to a better spot and set it hard, this was not the bottom of the crack though, so maybe it has moved or was moved? When working this route it would be easy to back that nut up with another or a cam. The nut would be almost impossible to place on lead, but a small cam might slip in the crack with a long blind reach?

IF you fall in the crux and the nut blows, you'll be just fine. You are not very high above the nut or the bolt below (really to the R) of that piece. I believe the only concern is if you fall after the crux, have not placed any additional gear, and the nut blows....

By Josh Janes
Feb 5, 2010

Well the fixed wire held a few spectacular whippers today. And although I wouldn't want to be on the sharp end when it blew, it can be backed up with a decent yellow Alien.

This route is pump-o-matically choss-a-licious!

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Feb 10, 2013

Interesting name. What's the story behind it?

By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
May 13, 2013

Kickin' Chicken is a bit of a slang term for the liquor Wild Turkey, and this route is a harder variation of Wild Turkey, so that is the story behind the name.