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Kibosch Buttress
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 1.5 from 6
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Ron Olevsky |
| Page Views: | 3,906 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on May 1, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.
Description
Kibosch Buttress is a worthwhile climb if you're in the area and looking for something on the easier side of the spectrum. It is a reasonable climb for beginning leaders.
The route can be done in one long pitch and has two distinct sections.
Begin up a right to left trending ramp/corner system with a fist sized crack. This initial section is very sandy and is the crux of the climb (5.6). Pitons are awkwardly placed on the wall to the right of the ramp and I'm not even sure why they're there as the crack takes protection well enough. I ended up using medium sized gear in the crack as well as the pitons since they were there. Confident leaders may be happy using only the fixed gear.
At the top of the ramp is an intermediate rappel anchor and at this point the character of the climb changes dramatically. Bypass the two pin anchor on the right and continue up beautiful varnish jugs (5.4) past a fixed piton or two to the top anchor. This section is runout but easy and secure.
Rope drag can be a bit of an issue near the top of the route, especially if you're clipping both trad and fixed protection, but I found it to be manageable. The climb could easily be broken into two pitches to eliminate rope drag if necessary. Alternatively, some parties may prefer to forego the short upper section and stop at the intermediate anchor. The upper section is easy and aesthetic if you like pulling on varnish jugs but it offers little challenge.
To descend, rappel from the top anchor angling toward the intermediate rappel anchor (much easier than it looks) and then from the intermediate anchor to the ground.
The route can be done in one long pitch and has two distinct sections.
Begin up a right to left trending ramp/corner system with a fist sized crack. This initial section is very sandy and is the crux of the climb (5.6). Pitons are awkwardly placed on the wall to the right of the ramp and I'm not even sure why they're there as the crack takes protection well enough. I ended up using medium sized gear in the crack as well as the pitons since they were there. Confident leaders may be happy using only the fixed gear.
At the top of the ramp is an intermediate rappel anchor and at this point the character of the climb changes dramatically. Bypass the two pin anchor on the right and continue up beautiful varnish jugs (5.4) past a fixed piton or two to the top anchor. This section is runout but easy and secure.
Rope drag can be a bit of an issue near the top of the route, especially if you're clipping both trad and fixed protection, but I found it to be manageable. The climb could easily be broken into two pitches to eliminate rope drag if necessary. Alternatively, some parties may prefer to forego the short upper section and stop at the intermediate anchor. The upper section is easy and aesthetic if you like pulling on varnish jugs but it offers little challenge.
To descend, rappel from the top anchor angling toward the intermediate rappel anchor (much easier than it looks) and then from the intermediate anchor to the ground.
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