Two definite schools of thought on the start. I led in directly from below being taller, using some dynamic moves and smearing. Partner very delicately came in from left side. Solid reachy hands with good feet in between gaps of blankness. Fun route.
Just right of Dimrill stair. Surprised was not in MP.com already, seemed like a commonly done route.
Right side of Middle earth corridor.
3 bolts, bolted anchors
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Aug 22, 2010
10a/b if you're strong and lanky. Maybe harder if not.
|By Johnny Ink|
Oct 8, 2011
I led this climb this morning after a few failed attempts at the start. Being 5'7", I definitely came in from the left side. Dynamic moves required between first and second bolt if you don't have the reach. Super fun climb.
From: Carlsbad CA
Feb 15, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
I noticed there was a good amount of chalk to the right of the third bolt. That variation is easier than going direct. I felt that the direct deserved a b/c ish rating. Fun none the less!