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 ADVANCED
Khayyam Spire

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conn Route T,S 
God's Own Drunk T 
Meltdown T,TR 
Option C T 
Power of Sole T,TR 
Rubiat Spire T,S 
Silk and Sangria T,S 
Yellow Wall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Khayyam Spire  


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Page Views: 18,169
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kevin Fons on Mar 9, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Khayyam Spire as seen from near the top of the Spi...

Description 

Khayyam spire is the prominent Spire with the bright yellow face. It stands out in front of the Spire 2/3 gully. The awsome South Yellow Face has a long bolted route (The Yellow Face), the rest of the spire has some great long crack routes including God's own Drunk, The Wildman Traverse and others.

Getting There 

The spire is the first major spire reached on the Cathedral Spires Trail. Follow the trail until you can move right and up to the base of the spire.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.0 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Khayyam Spire:
God's Own Drunk   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 320'   
Yellow Wall   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 320'   
Browse More Classics in Khayyam Spire

Featured Route For Khayyam Spire
Tony Bubb starting up the dihedral

God's Own Drunk 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  SD : Custer State Park : ... : Khayyam Spire
The route starts on the North Side of the spire - you can't miss it. The route follows the awesome dihedral.A few weird moves gets you up to the start of the main dihedral. There are great stances for placing gear and then you move up and out - the dihedral is almost like reverse mini steps. It kind of goes like this - place gear, move up and out, loose sight of the gear because it is under the mini overhang, place another piece and repeat. When I climbed the route my partner kept saying to ...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Khayyam Spire Slideshow Add Photo
The start of a 5.8 Kamp's Route on the south side ...
The start of a 5.8 Kamp's Route on the south side ...
The Upper West Face of Khayyam Tower of the Needle...
The Upper West Face of Khayyam Tower of the Needle...
From the top of Khayyam looking east.
From the top of Khayyam looking east.
from spire three
from spire three
Khayyam in the center
Khayyam in the center

Comments on Khayyam Spire Add Comment
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By Greg Parker
Administrator
Mar 12, 2003
Nate Renner and I did the Yellow Wall about five years ago and to this day it remains one of my most memorable ascents. The second pitch (12a) is amazing! Some of the sketchy bolts I have been replaced. Definately, definately worth doing.