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Palisade Head
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Unsorted Routes:

KGB 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Pagel
Page Views: 1,006
Submitted By: Andrew Krosbakken on Dec 23, 2008
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KGB

Description 

There are two cracks, the left being bigger. I took the right crack which seemed easier, but both are climbable.

The crack runs the length of the climb. Start climbing and continue up the crack/corner until you surmount a ledge about half way up. Then a nice crack to the top.


Location 

If you are descending the Southern Escape Gully, KGB is the first major corner with a flake to the right. We went to the top of the climb and rapped, and would strongly recommend this.

Just to warn everyone, there is scree on top of the climb and gets quite annoying. Not so much dangerous, well it could be but if you where a helmet you should be good.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of KGB Slideshow Add Photo
"KGB" viewed from below
BETA PHOTO: "KGB" viewed from below
sorry for the very bad quality because it's a picture of a video that I took. but it should help for locating the climb.
BETA PHOTO: sorry for the very bad quality because it's a pict...
Laura Machacek on "KGB" 5.7 at Palisade Head, MN.
Laura Machacek on "KGB" 5.7 at Palisade Head, MN.
placing some pro.
placing some pro.
Comments on KGB Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew Krosbakken
Dec 25, 2008

Ill try and get some pictures up on here of this climb.

By Sonnabend
From: West Saint Paul, MN
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This is a good moderate to set up a TR on. TR setup requires some long webbing to sling some trees and a medium sized hex for good measure/directional. Lots of gravel at the top so belayers should have a helmet on. I wouldn't top belay this one for that reason also. People that aren't into crack climbing will still be able to climb this route.

By J.Roatch
From: Twisp, WA
Mar 25, 2012

Led this today for the first time, pretty fun warm up with solid pro. Doesn't look like it gets climbed much though.

Description from Superior Climbs:
An excellent little corner about 50 ft right of the gully consisting of moderate crackwork on sound rock. The only detraction here is the steep loose slope above the climb; shifting top rope anchors or scrambling feet an send a shower of loose gravel onto anyone below.

By David Meyer
From: Stevens Point, WI
Aug 19, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Be wary of the first ten feet of the climb which holds some very suspect blocks that could easily come undone when weighted.