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 ADVANCED
Five and Dime Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bijou S 
Chump Change T 
Copper Penny T 
Five and Dime T 
Inner Reaches T 
Keystone Corner T 
Mockery S 
Nickel Bag S 
Ride the Lightning T,S 
Whack and Dangle T 

Keystone Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Don Reid, Jay Fiske, 10/75
Page Views: 1,842
Submitted By: Will S on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (60)
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Fun, steep and 5.8

Description 

[Start] about 20' left of the start of Five and Dime at an obvious right facing corner with a crack system on the left face and another in the back of the corner. Serves as the standard warm up pitch. Great pro, mainly in the tight hands size, but will take from fingers to fist at different points. At the top, I've always went into the chimney rather than stay in the crack on the left face. Crux is about halfway up, transitioning between the crack systems with cool stemming. The chimney section will pro with hand or fist sized pieces, but is short, secure and easy.

Protection 

Pro to 2.5".


Photos of Keystone Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Keystone Corner. A fun, varied and interesting 5.8
BETA PHOTO: Keystone Corner. A fun, varied and interesting 5.8

Comments on Keystone Corner Add Comment
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By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Dec 1, 2008

If you keep on the face the climbing is really fun, but maybe a little bit harder (5.8+)? Recommended.
By Dave Alden
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 28, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Very fun corner and some of the cleanest granite I've ever seen. Would love to repeat anytime.
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with Scotty that going direct was cool, and harder. I'd say more like a couple of 5.9 moves, but if you save a .5 and .75 it's very comfortable. Stepping right into the chimney is still fun, but doesn't seem as cool.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 28, 2014

No anchor up top.... easy walk off, just be aware.