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DescriptionThe Keyhole area is the first band of cliff that you find directly abutting the Undercliff Road as you walk north from the Trapps bridge. There are a number of great warm-ups intermingled with classic not-to-be-missed problems. Named for the 5.7 trad off-width crack climb and its two variations (5.9, 5.9+), all three of which are worthwhile V0s. Highlights in the area include the Gill Egg (V4), Clune Crank (V1), Gill Crack (V2), Dirty White Boys and Puerto Ricans (V7) and the Gill Pinch Roof (V4). Getting ThereWalk three minutes north on the Undercliff Road from the Trapps Bridge. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Keyhole Cliff area:
Keyhole Offwidth V0 Boulder, 15 feet
Keyhole Crack Left V0 Boulder, 12 feet
Keyhole Crack Right V0 Boulder, 12 feet
Clune Crank V1 Boulder, 10 feet
Gill Crack (AKA The Brat Gill Variation) V2 Boulder, 17 feet
Three Fools V3 Boulder, 10 feet
Gill Pinch Roof V4 Boulder, 15 feet
The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Route) V4 Boulder, 12 feet
Featured Route For Keyhole Cliff area
The Gill Egg (AKA Gill’s Route) V4 NY : The Gunks : ... : Keyhole Cliff area
Are all of John Gill’s routes this good, or did he have the good sense to only attach his name to the classics? I guess it doesn’t matter; as is the case with the other problems that bear his name in this area, this is a must do. Start on the rock below the egg. Work your hands up to the small incut holds on the lip of the egg. Climb to the top. If only it were that easy!...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
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