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Key Hole 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: fall, spring, winter
Page Views: 3,120
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Nov 4, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Moments before getting spanked by the 0.75 Camalot...

Description 

This is a short, splitter, hand crack. Make a few finger moves between pods at the bottom with a short traverse left before climbing straight up thin hands to hands (crux) to a two bolt anchor with chains.


Location 

This route is located to the left of the Bunny Ramp route by about 100 yards. It is an obvious splitter in white rock that is visible from the parking area.


Protection 

#3 TCU up through #2 Camalot. I used 2 #0.75 Camalots and 2 #3 TCUs, as well as the other recommended gear.



Photos of Key Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Key Hole plaque, still in one piece.
Key Hole plaque, still in one piece.
Another shot of the 10a hand crack.  Climber is just below the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the 10a hand crack. Climber is ju...
#1 Key Hole, 5.10-.
BETA PHOTO: #1 Key Hole, 5.10-.
View from base of climb. Watch out for loose rocks in the hole before it goes left and also right below the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: View from base of climb. Watch out for loose rocks...
Chockstone directly left of the anchors is good. Loose rock underneath it in the crack.
BETA PHOTO: Chockstone directly left of the anchors is good. L...
Looks like BD 0.75 and 1, does that equal 10a? <br />   <br />(Lisa Gillest belaying)
Looks like BD 0.75 and 1, does that equal 10a?

...
Comments on Key Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshh
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2008

This was a great route...similar crack size progression as Scarface in Indian Creek. That is of course following the fun finger crack start.

By Jeremy Franz
From: Berthoud, CO
Jan 13, 2009

Just for reference, Scarface is rated 5.11a/b. Possible confirmation that this is a bit of a sandbag???

By slim
Administrator
Jan 13, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

10a seemed about right when I did it some years ago. Scarface has a steeper start, and this crack has more of a positive feel to it through the thin hands section. The thin hands section on Scarface also feels a bit steeper than the thin hands section on this one. Just my $.02.

By Eli Steiger
From: Gunnison, Co
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

This route is known as Key Hole. It's a really good climb! I agree with Slim, not nearly as hard as Scarface.

By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Apr 30, 2009

Caution, heroes.
Anyone looking at this route should also know it's mostly all #0.75 & #1 Camalots. Now, if that's .10a for your hands = enjoy youself, but keep in mind that I thought Super Crack was 5.8 which for some may be OW and LB.
As I've always said: "desert cracks make you critically aware of your anatomical shortcoming and prowess".

By Carol Kotchek
From: Louisville, Colorado
May 9, 2010

Did this route yesterday. I have small hands. Seemed like 10c to me. Trickey moves through the pods and then pretty tight hands. Possibly ring locks for bigger hands? Definitely more difficult then Generic Crack at the Creek.

By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Oct 28, 2010

I got on this today, my hardest trad lead to date, and it was a great route. Went from great finger locks down low to rattly fingers to perfect ring locks to thin hands, and when I thought I could go no more I hit perfect hands to the top and ran it to the chains. Great varied climb and thank god for those pod rests.
Yellow TCU down low, old and now brown Alien prects the first pod then 1 #0.75, 2 slammed number ones, and a number two.