This one is much better than anticipated. What looks like a wide nightmare on poor rock turned out to be very enjoyable. Face climbing around most wide sections (my favorite), perfect natural belays, amazing last pitch, and a sweet walk-off.
P1: 5.10, 150' Cruise up to the small right facing chimney. Pull bulge and continue 'til you reach a nice ledge with a pin. Small gear for anchor.
P2: 5.10-, 65' Go for the large crack off the climber's left side of the belay ledge. Bust left onto face before horizontal. Stop at an even bigger belay ledge down and left of the large overhang. Medium gear for anchor.
P3: 5.10, 70' Pull final overhang and enjoy an atypical needles finger/hand crack to the top.
Finish on obvious high point on E face. Start between prominent buttress (on left) and very large boulder. Navigate your way back towards visible hiker's trail to the W.
Doubles to 3", nuts, optional #4
|By Cheyenne Chaffee|
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 21, 2012
Climbed this today. Great route with good gear, mostly good rock quality and good exposure. Quite easy to combine the second and third pitch with judicious use of long runners. #4 was nice to have. Would fit perfect to protect the pull over the roof near the top.
|By Robbie Freidel|
From: The Needles of South Dakota
Aug 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
would definitely recommend a number 4. a number 5 could be useful though unnecessary. crazy exposure. try looking down when pulling that roof.