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Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+ [details]
FA: FA: Morgan Patterson, SA: Nate Lambiec
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 884
Submitted By: Morgan Patterson on Mar 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Kerosine (iPhone Photo)


Sit start on the left side of the large horizontal on the eastern overhanging face. From the horizontal fire up to the bar then up left and then out right to the crimper and fire to the lip. Classy moves for a classic problem. A+ on movement!


3 pads

Photos of Kerosine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kerosine holds...
BETA PHOTO: Kerosine holds...

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By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Oct 1, 2013
rating: V5+ 6C+

would have given it more stars but the (dab block) in front of the climb was annoying
By Morgan Patterson
Oct 2, 2013

With the right beta I never even come close to touching it... but it could be reshaped to be less in the way. That and the one in front of Atomic Pleasure too.
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Oct 2, 2013
rating: V5+ 6C+

The one on Atomic didnt bother me nearly as much. I am sure you could start this further to the right...I was just going by the chalked starting holds
By andyelliott
Apr 18, 2014

Sent this today and was really stoked. for sure the hardest boudler I've climbed yet. the block at the base is only annoying for the first move. i just started on holds like a foot to the right.
By Will Cornell
May 30, 2015
rating: V5-6 6C+

Hey Morgan, sorry about that. Youtube was buggin' out. Here's the proper link:

Based on the pictures you uploaded, it looks like I escaped and topped out a little too far to the left which shaves off a move or two... However, I would definitely say those two moves are pretty banger and are followed by a tricky mantel. It felt pretty tough. What do you think??
By Morgan Patterson
Jun 1, 2015

In the world of bouldering, I would say that's a different line but shares a hold with Kerosine. Kerosine starts just to your right, goes up right first, then big move w/ left (to the hold you grab with your right), then to a crimp out right and up right to the dish and mantel. I would consider it a variation or a new line and you should add it to MP. Thanks for sharing bud!
By josh villeneuve
From: Enfield, CT
Jun 4, 2015
rating: V5+ 6C+

I agree with it being a variation, I climbed 2-3 moves to the right, glad to see someone climbing at the basin!
By czd
Sep 20, 2015

Bouldering is funny. The way I climbed "Kerosine" was what Morgan describes except I matched the triangular hold (that "I am ahab" and "Kerosine" share) and moved out left to the sloper on the arete that is used in the video.

Are the three problems? two problems? one with differnet beta? does it matter? who knows!
By Morgan Patterson
Sep 21, 2015

Was out this weekend lookin at this rock... If you started on Kerosine and ended up on the finishing mantle shown on Ahab vid, then it'd be a link up of the two ;-). The problems both have two distinct starts, finishes, and only share one hold.

I added a beta pic. Kerosine has some amazing movement if you get the sequence right. I will say matching that hold ruins a lot of cool movement. Throwing to the crimp dish is fun, setting up and throwing for the crimp is awesome, sticking it and slapping the arete is rad, and then final throw to the jug before the tricky mantle rounds it out as a classic in my book.

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