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Great Gable
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Kern Knotts Crack T 
Needle Gully Winter T 

Kern Knotts Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: O G Jones, H C Bowen.April 28th 1897
Page Views: 946
Submitted By: Little Chamonix on Dec 9, 2010

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The First Ascent,and in nailed boots. April 1897. ...


A great climb now and a very impressive first ascent for its era. P1)Climb the crack to the sentry box, Either jam the direct or climb the right wall on small holds to a long step left to the narrow part of the crack. Follow the fine crack to its top .75' 5.7+ P2)Step off the block onto the slab, Delicate moves to easier climbing to the top. 50'5.6.


Kern Knotts , Great Gable ..The Napes.. see FRCC guide book to Gable and Pillar


Not Much... odd cam

Photos of Kern Knotts Crack Slideshow Add Photo
1954..  P.Ross on the crack...
1954.. P.Ross on the crack...
Historic Photo. 1954.  The late George Fisher (of ...
Historic Photo. 1954. The late George Fisher (of ...

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By Little Chamonix
From: Cumbria.UK
Dec 14, 2010

A note from Mike Binnie UK. My wife,Carol,godfather Geoffrey Gathorne had a foot shot off in the Boer War (about 1898?)told me once how he climbed Kern Knotts crack with a false foot.He was the middle man of three. Somewhere on the climb that foot got stuck in the crack.He could not budge it. So the leader called down "Take your foot off and number three can unwedge it for you and bring it up".Which is what happened.He must have been almost up the climb,somehow joined his leader,number three brought up his foot with boot attached,Geoffrey strapped his foot back onto his leg and all three of them finished the climb then hiked up to the summit of Great Gable!
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