Kermit's Wad 

I believe there are 5 bolts on the route. Another fun friction route. The crux is definitely after the 3rd bolt, until you can get your hands onto the edges on the green face. After the 5th bolt, one has 2 choices. 1) Continue on the ledge to the vertical crack, then go up to the anchors. 2) Traverse right and up on the sloping ledge.

Just climbed this today. It is a fun route with some pretty healthy runouts (from the last bolt to the anchors is very "healthy").The main crux is from the fourth bolt to the green section of the wall. A cam would be helpful under the small roof beneath the fist bolt, as the bolt is about twenty feet up.

p.s. Two of the three anchor bolts are spinners, so be careful.

favorite slab route in the area

I am not "man" enough for this route...

This route is not too runout any more (just a little between bolts 1 and 2 on the easiest slab section). It has, I believe, 7 bolts (not sure when they were added). A #2 cam is deemed prudent for the starting moves. excellent line, especially near the top from the crux to the last bolt! (last 4 bolts)

Original FA Info:

I wanted to submit the missing 1st ascent information for this popular and fun route.

Kermit's Wad was originally put up in 1982 by David Rubine, Ron Rubine and Don Mealing. All bolts were put in stance on lead. They originally rated it 5.10b. The route was originally led by starting up the corner to the left and then stepping right on to the slab below the 1st bolt. Gear was placed in the corner.

The direct start was also climbed at that time on TR from the 1st bolt and then led through.

The Rubine's and Mealing did this route passing through on a brief climbing stint in the canyon on the way to CA. Upon hooking up in CA they told me about the route. Rubine gave me permission to report it now.

It always has seemed interesting to me that routes take on lives of their own, especially popular ones, and become part of an area as if it always belonged to it. Much of the time the 1st ascent party becomes secondary to the climb itself. I know these guys enjoyed putting up the route and were glad people have found it worth doing.

It seems like it was just yesterday when we were putting up Kermit's Wad back in the summer of whatever that was. My bro Dave and Don Mealing having just gotten jobs at a spot called Navajo Trails Rocky Mountain Ranch Camp outside of Bicknell, Utah, near Capitol Reef National Park. It's great to see those spontaneous efforts in Cottonwood Canyon that day afforded some folks the opportunity to do some quality slab climbing over the years. Whoever initiated the strand that ferried me back in time to a great summer in God's Country - thanks. I hope that Kermit's Wad spawned many an ascent on some of the greatest granite on the planet.
Ron Rubine

Such a great route. I did this as an onsite when Darren K asked me to set up a top rope for a club day a few years back. I had no idea what a wonderful experience it would be.

Hi - Just wondering something. I free soloed this route back in the late 80's. Anyone else?

Thanks - Gordon Douglass

@ G. Douglass: Not proud of it, but late 80's solo as well.

Doubt the free solo