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Kermits wad lead climbing
Starting (30 feet?) left of Smitty's Wet Dream, you will see an angling ledge system moving up and right then onto a blank face with four bolts. The blank face is the crux and was pretty slick in my memory. You are heading up and right to meet the top of Cranial Prophylactic.
Descent:75 foot rappel.
Basically quick draws will suffice (6 bolts + bolted anchors), however small nuts and cams could come in handy in a few places. Or... set up a top rope above Cranial Prophylactic.
On the easy lower portion.
Also, on the easy lower portion.
Starting the hard sequence.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Jul 22, 2004
I believe there are 5 bolts on the route. Another fun friction route. The crux is definitely after the 3rd bolt, until you can get your hands onto the edges on the green face. After the 5th bolt, one has 2 choices. 1) Continue on the ledge to the vertical crack, then go up to the anchors. 2) Traverse right and up on the sloping ledge.
|By Trevor Fugate|
Oct 15, 2004
Just climbed this today. It is a fun route with some pretty healthy runouts (from the last bolt to the anchors is very "healthy").The main crux is from the fourth bolt to the green section of the wall. A cam would be helpful under the small roof beneath the fist bolt, as the bolt is about twenty feet up.
p.s. Two of the three anchor bolts are spinners, so be careful.
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
favorite slab route in the area
|By Shaun Greene|
Sep 29, 2008
I am not "man" enough for this route...
|By Tyler King|
From: Salt Lake, UT
Oct 26, 2008
This route is not too runout any more (just a little between bolts 1 and 2 on the easiest slab section). It has, I believe, 7 bolts (not sure when they were added). A #2 cam is deemed prudent for the starting moves. excellent line, especially near the top from the crux to the last bolt! (last 4 bolts)
|By Keith Forest|
May 23, 2010
Original FA Info:
I wanted to submit the missing 1st ascent information for this popular and fun route.
Kermit's Wad was originally put up in 1982 by David Rubine, Ron Rubine and Don Mealing. All bolts were put in stance on lead. They originally rated it 5.10b. The route was originally led by starting up the corner to the left and then stepping right on to the slab below the 1st bolt. Gear was placed in the corner.
The direct start was also climbed at that time on TR from the 1st bolt and then led through.
The Rubine's and Mealing did this route passing through on a brief climbing stint in the canyon on the way to CA. Upon hooking up in CA they told me about the route. Rubine gave me permission to report it now.
It always has seemed interesting to me that routes take on lives of their own, especially popular ones, and become part of an area as if it always belonged to it. Much of the time the 1st ascent party becomes secondary to the climb itself. I know these guys enjoyed putting up the route and were glad people have found it worth doing.
|By ron rubine|
From: Los Angeles
Jul 7, 2010
It seems like it was just yesterday when we were putting up Kermit's Wad back in the summer of whatever that was. My bro Dave and Don Mealing having just gotten jobs at a spot called Navajo Trails Rocky Mountain Ranch Camp outside of Bicknell, Utah, near Capitol Reef National Park. It's great to see those spontaneous efforts in Cottonwood Canyon that day afforded some folks the opportunity to do some quality slab climbing over the years. Whoever initiated the strand that ferried me back in time to a great summer in God's Country - thanks. I hope that Kermit's Wad spawned many an ascent on some of the greatest granite on the planet.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Jul 7, 2011
Such a great route. I did this as an onsite when Darren K asked me to set up a top rope for a club day a few years back. I had no idea what a wonderful experience it would be.
|By Gordon E. Douglass|
Sep 14, 2011
Hi - Just wondering something. I free soloed this route back in the late 80's. Anyone else?
Thanks - Gordon Douglass
|By John Rogers|
Sep 20, 2011
@ G. Douglass: Not proud of it, but late 80's solo as well.
|By Keith Forest|
Mar 23, 2013
Doubt the free solo