A beautiful dihedral crack. Scramble to a ledge, then jam, stem, and lieback past a belay station to the top and anchor off of a tree.
Protection
This crack protects extremely well. There is a belay about halfway up if you want to make it 2 pitches. On top there are slings & rap rings around the belay tree. You can rap the route in two rappels or make it in one rap with a 70m rope.
Location
The route is the obvious huge dihedral where the approach trail meets the wall. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall.
By Chris Chaney From: Golden, Colorado Sep 27, 2006
Don't belay from the tree at the first ledge. Not a good anchor and it won't last if people keep using it. Better to build an anchor in the crack at the ledge if you must split the climb into two pitches. There are bolt anchors at 60m on the higher ledge.
A couple of #2 Camalots protect the crack on the lower part perfectly. Climbing beyond the bolted rap/belay station isn't all that interesting. Fun jamming and liebacking to an exciting finish.
Great climb, easy access. Last weekend we ran a group of 6 up and down this with ease(I added an extra 2" to the sling salad on the little tree). Love the stemming!!! PS- something very thin and interesting (maybe 5.12b or more)immediately to the left. Starts on thin horizontals and wanders left to a notch.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Oct 27, 2008 rating: 5.8
Excellent climb, well worth making a second trip to Roadside to find it unoccupied. The hand jams are phenomenal!
PLEASE DO NOT rap/belay off the little tree!!! Man up for this big O 5.7 and do it in one pitch! You can TR/Rap with a 60m rope so there is no need to break it up. I have cut enough slings off that thing over the past 10 years, and slowly watched it die. Really there is no need! If you need to break it up, go climb elsewhere
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