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DescriptionPhantasia is the Red River Gorge's original roadside sport crag. It has a nice spread of routes from the gumby classic testpiece Creture Feature to the insanely steep and insanely classic Twinkie. Getting ThereFrom Slade take highway 15 west for 1 mile. Turn right onto hwy 77. Continue on 77 through Nada Tunnel and across the Iron Bridge (Menifee Co. Line). Drive a bit further to a split in the road and bear left heading up the hill. When the rock becomes visible to the left side of the road look for pulloffs on the right. There is an obvious trail that will take you from the biggest pulloff to Creature Feature. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Phantasia:
Creature Feature 5.9 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Pogue Ethics 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Overlord 5.10b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Creep Show 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Count Floyd Show 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Twinkie 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Featured Route For Phantasia
Creature Feature 5.9 KY : Red River Gorge : Phantasia
A "hero" climb with one cool steep move and a lot of huge holds.Get up to the ledge at the base of the route, just below the big roof and clip a bolt. Lean out over the roof to some big holds and ape your way onto those. You can practically campus the route from there, but heel-hooks look cooler. Clip a bolt above the roof and pull up to stand on the less-than-vertical face. Continue up on plates and puzzle pieces to a set of anchors and lower of...[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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