Mountain Project: Climbing Red River Gorge > Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve

Submitted By: saxfiend on Oct 29, 2009
Administrator: saxfiend
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Description

Another triumph of climber ownership, the PMRP is a 700-acre area in the southern section of the Red River Gorge. It is owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. More than 300 routes in 20 separate areas are available to climbers thanks to the efforts of the RRGCC.

Climbing in the PMRP began in the 1990s not long after the discovery of the Motherlode just east of the area. At the time, this sizeable tract of land was owned by the Pendergrass family descendents, and much of it was leased out for oil exploration. As climbers began developing the numerous crags in the area, the RRGCC worked toward an accommodation of the various public and private interests there. Finally, in 2004, the coalition purchased surface rights to the tract, ensuring continued climbing access.

As with Muir Valley, the other major climber-owned section of Red River Gorge, climbers must sign a liability waiver before climbing in the PMRP. For more information and rules on the area, go to the RRGCC web site.

Getting There

To get to the PMRP, travel south on KY 11 south of Torrent Falls. Depending on the area you're heading to, turn off on either Fixer Road or Bald Rock Fork Road. Park only in designated parking areas and steer clear of all oil production equipment.

NOTE: Access to many crags in the PMRP may be problematical without a high-clearance vehicle.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve:

27 Years of Climbing 5.8 Sport, 65 feet The Gallery

Make A Wish 5.10a Sport, 75 feet Drive-By Crag

Breakfast Burrito 5.10c Sport, 80 feet Drive-By Crag

A Brief History of Climb 5.10c Sport, 100 feet The Gallery

Murano 5.10c Sport, 75 feet The Gallery

Fire and Brimstone 5.10d Sport, 90 feet Drive-By Crag

Johnny B. Good 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Gallery

Whip-Stocking 5.11a Sport, 80 feet Drive-By Crag

Spirit Fingers 5.11c Sport, 70 feet Drive-By Crag

Check Your Grip 5.12a Sport, 80 feet Drive-By Crag

Dogleg 5.12a Sport, 90 feet Bob Marley

Featured Route For Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve

Moving out the bulge near the route's end.<br /><br />Photo by, Liam Griffin

Johnny B. Good 5.11a KY : Red River Gorge : ... : The Gallery

A bulging start mixed with a high class technical slab and gymnastic moves out a steep roof makes for one of the finer routes at the Gallery.The route begins with an "in your face" bulging boulder problem that gains you access to the meat of the climb.Finesse your way up the incredibly fun thin slab using body weight opposition, high steps, and keen route finding skills. Rest below the massive roof, then monkey your way out the bulging roof, mak...[more] Browse More Classics in KY

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