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The Dark Side
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American Dream 
Force, The 
Mama Benson 
Padawan 
Shanghai 

Shanghai 

5.12d

   

FA: Chris martin, 2000
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12d [details]
Length: 90 feet
Views: 90 page views

Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008


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Shanghai is the second route from the left, beginn...


Description 

One of the classic routes of the grade, Shanghai ascends an intimidating wave of bullet sandstone. The route begins with an awkward scramble up the unfortunate ramp. Begin a bit left of the bolt line with a long reach (and a long draw) to clip the second bolt. Match the big hold & cut your feet to get established on the wall. Enduro jugs lead to a cool undercling move to a horn, then more jugs to an obvious blank section visible from the ground. A series of big crux moves, with a bigger pump leads to a strenuous clip at the anchor.


Location 

On the left end of the Dark Side cave, this route is the second route from the left, beginning from the big ramp. Next route right of Mama Benson.


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Clip another 2-3 bolts on the ramp traverse.



Comments on Shanghai Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 7, 2009

I found that when you first arrive at the anchors it is strenuous to clip but if you move a bit further you wil be rewarded.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 12, 2009

Dude, you just blew everyone's onsight with that key piece of beta! Shh!