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Long Wall

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Long Wall

Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 2, 2006
Administrator: saxfiend
Latitude: 37.8446  Longitude: -83.6686 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
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Description 

Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.

The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.

Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.


Getting There 

From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Wall:
Autumn   5.9-     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Vector Trouble   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Rock Wars   5.10a     Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet   
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Back Door to Paris   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
B3   5.11b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Browse More Classics in Long Wall

Featured Route For Long Wall
Chris traversing into the "handcrack"

B3 5.11b PG13  KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall
A hard climb with some interesting gear. While I have seen this described as a handcrack in some versions of guides, I beg to differ. It is more a series of pods and flares with some crack between, and even then not really such a size so as to be called a handcrack.Locate the pair of climbs, Perforator and B3. Perhaps 5 meters left of Perforator, boulder/climb some pockets up and at the bottom of a crack (5.10, PG13) and get some gear ASAP. Cli...[more]   Browse More Classics in KY