The crux is getting off the ground, and I feel that has never been accounted for in the traditional grade of 5.4. The climb is probably more like 5.6. I have photos of trad newbies getting boosts (standing in cupped hands, on knees and backs, etc...) to get started on it! Once you do, it is good rock, good gear and good moves up the crack system for 60' to a ledge.
This was my college girlfriend's first ever trad lead. An older pal followed her on it, cleaning. Casey asked time and time again: "How was my (such and such a piece)?" Bruce would answer: "Pretty good" or "You could have placed a bigger hex."
Just before the bulge up top he was hard for her to hear: "How was that last hex" "You could hang a cow on it" "What?" "You could hang a cow on it" "I can't hear you." "You could hang a cow on it" "Tony, what did he say." "He said it would hold you." The crowd below burst out in laughter. "Oh. What is so funny?"
I was later in pretty big trouble...
Location
This climb is just right of center in the main amphitheatre of Fortress Wall. It is identified by two features, it's proximity and shared start with American Wall, a pattern of darker flakes, resembling a map of North America just out of reach of the ground, and the wide crack and left-facing corner to it's right.
Protection
A rack from wide fingers to fist sized. The top has been bolted to make belaying and lowering off easy, and possibly to save a few trees.
I would agree with Tony, it is one or two 5.6 moves to get off of the ground, then 5.4 with good gear all the way to the top. I remember doing this as one of my very first climbs...the start baffled me at the time.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Oct 27, 2008 rating: 5.6
This is a surprisingly nice route with a dicey start and an exciting finish. Extra #3 Camalots are a good thing to have on your rack.
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