The late Terry Kindred at the roof of Bombs Bursti...
Description
Stem into the corner and discover that the apparent hand crack is not deep enough for good solid jams. The good news is that it does take good gear. And the crux is thankfully short.
Once under the roof you have three options: 1) SECOND BEST OPTION- Place a good nut or cam in the left crack around the roof and sling it long. Climb up, staying left 2) BEST OPTION- Place gear in same place as option one, then climb past the roof slightly left of center on big holds. Solid climbing and fairly well protected. 3) WORST OPTION?- I have not climbed the crack to the right, but it looks harder and less fun than the center route.
After the roof you have a similar choice, but none are good. The standard path is straight up the very friable left facing flake. Be forewarned! In the summer there is usually a wasp nest in the flake just before the top out.
This is a worthy route, it just has a few detracting factors, such as the poor rock quality in topping out and the presence of wasps most of hte summer.
Location
From American Crack follow the lower ledge right around a buttress and past Route 48 to the next dihedral. It has a roof at 2/3 height.
There is some sort of fixed anchor, but don't count on anything. Worst case scenario: scramble left over the massive boulder and rappel from American Crack anchors.
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