Randy Childers heads up the upper part of the uppe...
Description
A great route normally done as 2 short pitches. Climb a left-angling flake to a big ledge with a huge block on it. Belay here to avoid a bad line with your rope, even though you are not yet more than 50' up. Walk right to a second crack in the wall which ascends up and right on hand jams (crux) and horizontal holds through a steep section headed out right towards an arete. Finish on face moves to reach the top. Belay & rap from bolt anchors.
Location
Around to the far left of Fortress wall and around the left side of the amphitheatre, to the West face. Go along this face for perhaps 50 yards to reach a left-angling flake to a ledge- the beginning of Bedtime for Bonzo.
A good route with good sections, but it always felt too wandering and the pitches were too short to call classic. The best part is the jamming on pitch #2 (all 20' of it, if that) out to the right of the ledge, as the position and rock are truly good.
This route was overhyped for me and has the same reputation among others I've talked to. It has a short section at the end that is striking, but it's so short you almost don't notice. I don't think it's the classic line everyone makes it out to be. Even so, the fact that it's a two pitch 5.6 in the Red makes for good multi-pitch practice for beginner climbers.
By TravisMelin From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va Nov 15, 2007
cool finish, liked the exposure
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Oct 27, 2008 rating: 5.7+
Short pitches, but an excellent route with nice exposure. Save a #3 Camalot or equivalent for the angling crack on P2.
By Glenn Gordon From: Buffalo Grove, Illinois Oct 13, 2009 rating: 5.7+
This is a fun route.
3 stars for the view from the top, the fun factor, and the novelty of the hallway area.
I felt if was a touch more difficult than many of the other 5.7's I've led at RRG so I gave it a "+".
i put my wife on the first pitch of this thing as an easy first trad lead. she had difficulty and when I tried it I could see why. I think the guidebook rates the 1st pitch as a 5.4, and I would say it is stiff for the grade. Not to nit-pick such an easy route, just make sure you don't get in over your head. The crux is getting over the first little bulge.
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