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 ADVANCED
Grotto Left (East Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affirmative Action S 
Bedeviled S 
Bergers Bakeshop S 
Better Late than Never S 
Bush in a Blender S 
Chopping Block S 
Cruella de Vil S 
Diabolical S 
Drama Queen S 
El Areto Bolto Del Diablo S 
Evil S 
Evil Paradise S 
Good S 
Hidden Slab S 
Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) S 
Lucifer's Hammer Drill S 
Memory Block S 
Muscle Crow S 
Ojo S 
Panic Attack T 
Prescribed Burn S 
Snazz By Nazz (aka Access Crack, Guillotine Crack p1) T 
Sunday Bloody Sunday (aka Tight Little Package) T 
Unknown (Crack right of Ojo) T 
Waiting to Procrastinate S 

Ken's Shitty Route (K.S.R.) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on Jul 8, 2007

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Late afternoon light casts a glow as George gets a...

Description 

The route is currently the first one you come to on your left on The East Wall of The Grotto, right around the corner from A Day with Dr. Diablo. This is a very continuous route at this grade and is actually not as bad as originally thought. There is some vertical Diablo type climbing that starts in a dihedral for 3 bolts then continues through four more bolts to a two bolt anchor. The crux is right between the 3rd and 5th bolts on not so positive holds that are similar to the ones found on Good but a lot smaller and worse. I think the route is slightly technical, very continuous, and has an endurance crux. K.S.R. may also be used as an approach(5.8 runout) to The Skyline Arete and "Medusa" on the upper tier of The East Wall of The Grotto.

Location 

Same as for Diablo Canyon.

Protection 

Seven quickdraws to a two bolt chained anchor. Small to medium cams(optional) for the 5.8 runout if continuing to the upper tier. There is a bombproof two bolt anchor on the upper tier that you can get off with a 60 meter rope to the north side of the KSR buttress.


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