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Lost Horizon
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Bloody Horn, The T 
Classic Rock T 
Fore Paws T 
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Punk Rock T 
Putting the Past Away T 
Rock Garden  T 
Rock On T 
Stealing Candy from a Baby T 
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Kennel Boy 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: October 1998, Dave Kelly and Robert Sagerman
Page Views: 854
Submitted By: James Colin Walsh on Oct 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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A surprisingly nice climb with fun moves on perfect rock. Start by putting a piece in the small slot above the starting roof. Climb up the corner/arete on the roof's right side to the large ledge above. Then make some unprotected 5.9 face moves up to a fixed pin. A short finger crack above leads to balance moves, a bolt, and the crux. Continue to a tree belay.


This route is five feet to the left of Rock Garden and starts under the far right hand side of the prominent roof/overlap seven to ten feet off the ground on the left side of the cliff. Look for a small slot for a wire at the lip, a fixed pin jutting out in the middle of the climb, and a bolt high above on a clean white headwall. To descend, rappel from the tree at the climb's finish.


Bring a small rack with an emphasis on small wires/TCUS to supplement the fixed pin and bolt. Tree anchor on top.

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By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 7, 2013

This a very fun route. It was very well protected with a metolius 0 and 1. Make sure to have a small cam or two. The only move that felt 5.10 is the top at which is protected by the bolt. The rest felt 5.9- to me. There is a 5.4 to the right you could lead up to set a perfect toprope for this route.
By Gabriel Faucher
Sep 23, 2014

ugly ending, where does it end?
By Matt Tse
May 21, 2015

the guide book had the route ending just above the bolt on the blank face where there is a jug on top although I'm not sure whether or not the arete to the right is en route for this one. I called it once my chest was level with that bolt. great climb that is both athletic and somewhat technical.
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