|Ragged Edges Area
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Mamusia, Van Betten, Nordblum, Harrison, Conz, Schoeder, Broussard 1983|
|Page Views: ||1,882|
|Submitted By: ||John Hegyes on Jul 20, 2005|
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The beautiful start of Kemosabe,on a hot summer af...
Past the left end of Ragged Edges Cliff is a shady hollow featuring the climb Tonto. To the left of Tonto is a large white arching flake. Climb the arÍte of this flake leading to a thin right-leaning crack on the outside of this arch. Continue up to a bolt on the face as the crack peters out. Climb to the left of the bolt for the 5.9 escape or to the right for the 5.10a finish. Belay at some horizontal cracks and rappel from a tree at the top of Tonto with one 60 meter rope.
Standard rack up to #3.5 Camalot
BETA PHOTO: Kemosabe - Willow Springs
Jake tip toeing up the massive rounded flake that ...
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This was my first .10a lead and I have to say, I was really glad to see that brand new ASCA bolt up there upon my arrival. The route is tamer now with the good bolt, although the exposure and the slightly insecure moves to finish the route still make it exciting!
|By Darshan Ahluwalia|
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 19, 2007
This was very mentally challenging for me. I swear that I was going to fly off the edge. Thankfully I didn't.
This reminds me of Hairlip at Suicide.
From: Lyons, CO
Apr 1, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a R
There is far less pro on this one compared to either Chicken Eruptus or Sheep Trail. I took the right finish (supposedly the harder one) and thought it was pretty easy. You don't need anything larger than a #1 camalot; but bring a few micro cams or even ball nuts if you have them.
|By Lluis Penalver-Aguila|
Apr 12, 2009
A couple of pieces of small pro can be placed at the first ledge up from the start and up the first half of the right leaning seam. Edgy climb with thru-stepping halfway up before the bolt. I went left at the bolt as this seemed easier. Lots of smearing and careful foot placement is necessary.
|By Eugene Kwan|
May 7, 2011
I thought this was PG-R. There's gear, but it has to be placed from tricky places and in some flaring spots. Some of it is pretend gear. Maybe a few offset nuts would be useful, but I didn't have any handy. I chose to go a bit left at the bolt and head back right.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jan 31, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
Don't forget the RP's and small nuts. Beautiful route with an overwhelming impending doom feeling to it.
|By Drew Peterson|
Mar 6, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13
An interesting route that was far from a casual romp up a 10a. The "Impending doom" comment was spot on. I'd recommend Chicken Eruptus over this route.
|By Burt Lindquist|
From: Madison, WI
Apr 9, 2012
Awesome lead with a bit off gippy feel as far as gear goes in the first 1/2. I loved this route.
|By Tommy G.|
From: Irvine, California
Dec 10, 2012
Memorable climbing. I didn't want to fall above that over hang. Gear was somewhat sobering, but more than adequate.
|By catrina sisco|
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 7, 2013
I'm pretty confident when it comes to placing gear, and falling has never been an issue for me, I actually find it fun, until I lead this route. I almost want to call the gear fake due to the fact that your placing some of your smallest pieces you have in a shallow crack, in sandstone. I think that's what makes this route so fun though! Its one of those climbs you actually have to commit to, and pay attention to where you're placing your gear. A short route, with a high sketch factor. Be prepared to send it, because you wont want to fall.