Kelly Canyon  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  7,000' Lat, Long:  35.0661, -111.6999 Map Page Views:  40,301. Good page? (1 like)    Administrators:  Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Andrew Ryder on May 3, 2008 Make this area a Favorite What's New  Printer View Add Area  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event

The long reach down low of Dope Lounge. Pic by Mud...

Description 

A peaceful ponderosa-forested canyon with tons of bouldering on cliffs and boulders of Coconino sandstone. Dramatic curving slashes stripe the walls, the result of lithified sand dunes deposited 260 million years ago. These slashes birth many slopers and incut rails, lending to a unique and distinctly technical sort of climbing. Rock quality at Kelly is notoriously variable: bullet-hard in some places, horribly sandy and crumbly elsewhere. Tread carefully, especially on less-trafficked problems, and don't forget to bring a soft-bristled brush. Many of the problems here are moderately to seriously highball and most have committing, sloping topouts so multiple pads and spotters are pretty much essential. The prime season for Kelly Canyon is September through November when it's cold and dry. Summers can be toasty, though it's easy to find shade. However, winter is generally a bust - the road typically closes by late November, and the canyon's east-west orientation blocks out most sunlight, meaning large snowdrifts and deep pools that won't dry out. Unless it is an exceptionally warm and snow-free winter, don't plan on coming between the first heavy snow and perhaps the middle of April. This is a good place to forget about names and grades, to just find some rock that inspires you and throw yourself at it. Having said that, here are some names and grades.

Getting There 

From downtown Flagstaff, follow Milton Rd. south until it becomes Interstate 17, then continue about 8 miles to the Kelly Canyon Rd. exit. Turn right (west) at the overpass and head through the gate, then immediately turn right (north). This dirt road (FR 631) is passable in most vehicles if you drive carefully. Drive a couple miles staying right at all forks, passing a big shooting pit full of garbage (yuck), until you see a fairly obvious parking area with a fire pit on the right. An obvious trail leads quickly to the bottom of the canyon - this is the Trailer Park. Please stay on the trail.

The Classics

Featured Route For Kelly Canyon

Cleveland Steamer V6  AZ : Northern Arizona : ... : Donkey Punch Area

This problem takes the center line up the Donkey Punch Wall. Start with a cool iron knob for the left hand and a small crimp for the right. Make a few fingery moves on thin patina crimps to a sloping pocket and a flat rail. After matching the rail, a couple big lockoffs gain the top of the wall. Finish with a petrifying mantel. It is advisable to brush off the top of this problem in advance. Some of the most bullet rock in the canyon with fabulous movement all the way....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

Photos of Kelly Canyon Slideshow

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Another beautiful day at Kelly. Jeff Snyder on awe...

An extendable brush is a nice accessory, especiall...