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Keepin' It Real 
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Wanker Rail, The 

Keepin' It Real 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Cox, Bloom, Crawley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 137
Submitted By: Colin Cox on Oct 30, 2011
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Matt finding his own beta for the crux of Keepin' ...

Description 

David kept it real going for the onsight F.A. He didn't make it, but confirmed the need for bolts for the entire route. Cool slab leads to steeper rock and then the crux - a powerful long reach over the bulge followed by an insecure pinch move. Excellent stemming up the final dihedral. This one requires finesse and power.


Location 

Starts one terrace up from Stepchild etc. Pull the direct boulder problem start or just climb the slab by traversing in from the right. 1st bolt at about 25 feet.


Protection 

5 bolts



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