Keep the River Free 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet, Grade II |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 29, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: P1 of River passes through the apex of the roof ba...
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Description This route is unlisted in the recent Luebben/Cross/Scott Poudre Canyon Routes guidebook, but appears on the Greyrock topo as route #69 on the Southeast Face.
P1 - Climb the fun, moderate face immediately right of Black Dog's first pitch (pro in a thin crack) up to the apex of the roof system. Pull through the roof (10a) on a finger crack and fun stemming to a stance immediately above. Climb cracks and the face above to a ledge system where a belay can be had. 5.10a, 130 feet.
P2 & 3 - Climb a crack off the ledge with a right-ward kink to it's terminus and traverse left across a water streak to another crack - set a belay where convenient. The rest of the climb follows the Greyrock crack/face mantra up moderate terrain to the top of the wall. 2 pitches of moderate length, 5.7+, possible runouts depending on your particular line.
Location Immediately right of Black Dog a very thin seam/crack splits the face and leads directly up to a sizable roof with two cracks. This seam, and the roof above, are the first pitch.
Protection A standard rack to #3 Camalot is just fine for this route; as always, a set of TCUs or the like is useful for the occasional thin crack.
| Comments on Keep the River Free |
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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Mar 29, 2010
| For what it's worth, this climb would make a great first 5.10 lead, as the pro at the crux would be totally solid and easy to place. It's a few challenging, isolated moves amidst otherwise moderate and enjoyable climbing. |
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Apr 11, 2010
| Great climb! I enjoyed this more than Greatest Route. Following the 10a roof move (seems like a fair rating) I worked my way left up one of the best 5.8ish cracks I've climbed at the Greyrock. As with most moderates up here, options abound. Can be done in two long pitches with some secure simul climbing at the end. |
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 4, 2011
| In the printed edition of the NC3's Poudre Canyon Guide, this route is titled "Keep the River Free", listed at 10a, and is given two well deserved stars. |
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