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Junkyard Wall
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Ann's Revenge T 
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Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 
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Churning in the Huecos T 
Contortionist, The T 
Distortionist, The T 
Entertainer, The T,TR 
Enteruptus T 
Four Sheets to the Wind T 
Jumping Jack Flash T 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) T,S 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 
Mr. Ed T 
New River Gunks T,TR 
New Yosemite T,TR 
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Rapscallion's Blues T 
Reachers of Habit S 
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Realignment (Entertainer direct), The T,TR 
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Yew Nosemite T 

Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Barry, Gibson '85
Page Views: 1,164
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta

Description 

This route wanders some but it is a worthwhile Toprope for beginners, especially for guides looking for easy climbs for clients.

Start on the ledge 4 ft up, go to lef arete, pull a couple of slab moves o the big undercling, then deadpoint up to ledge, mantle ledge, traverse into corner and finish to the top.


Location 

Just to the left of Jumping Jack Flash.


Protection 

No pro until 15 ft, then spaced pro to anchors.



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By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

If your partner wants to lead it after you, they'll be in for a treat when they go to clean the last piece. We placed a piece at the bottom of the far right of the North Carolina-shaped flake and cleaning it meant I had to go back to the far right of this wandering route. This meant I got to do the big swing into the opening under the roof!
The guidebook gives this route 0 stars, but I thought it flowed nicely and was a pleasant and easy climb. It was a great time killer while we waited for New Yosemite to open up.

By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Jun 5, 2012

If you stay on the ledge and head straight up instead of traversing over it's more of 10a..ish..

The variation was a lot more fun than I thought it was going to be. No prize winner though.