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 ADVANCED
Janes Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Been Caught Stealin' S 
Doctor's Orders S 
Half Baked S 
Idiots Rule S 
Jay Smith Appreciation Route T 
Keep It Gutta T 
Mannish Boys S 
Naked and Disfigured S 
Pigs in Zen S 
Playing Hooky S 
See Dick Fly S 
Shenaniganery T 
What's left of the sport. T 
Unsorted Routes:

Keep It Gutta 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: KH, NP, KJ, CL
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter
Page Views: 136
Submitted By: Cultivating Mass on Feb 9, 2014

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Description 

Fun mixed line just right of See Dick Fly. Takes an engaging, well proctected face with a crack running through it to a steeper head wall and crux climbing. This route, like all established by our group, was established ground up, without chalk, no previewing, and no hooks.

Location 

In the corridor on the far right side of the main wall, just right of See Dick Fly and left of Jay Smith Appreciation Route.

Protection 

A set of wires and cams to .75" is all you'll need for gear. Rappel anchor in place on top.


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By Cultivating Mass
Feb 11, 2014

Sport wanks take note: it is possible to avoid the crack start to this one by beginning on the 10d and moving right to clip the first bolt on Gutta following an easy crack traverse; this keeps the pro all bolted but definitely changes the nature of the route. Call it Keep It Fly on your 8a.nu account and know that I am making fun of you. On a serious note, this traverse wasn't part of my line and thus didn't get cleaned, so probably has choss on it still. Heads up.