Keep It Gutta
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Fun mixed line just right of See Dick Fly. Takes an engaging, well proctected face with a crack running through it to a steeper head wall and crux climbing. This route, like all established by our group, was established ground up, without chalk, no previewing, and no hooks.
A set of wires and cams to .75" is all you'll need for gear. Rappel anchor in place on top.
By Cultivating Mass
Feb 11, 2014
Sport wanks take note: it is possible to avoid the crack start to this one by beginning on the 10d and moving right to clip the first bolt on Gutta following an easy crack traverse; this keeps the pro all bolted but definitely changes the nature of the route. Call it Keep It Fly on your 8a.nu account and know that I am making fun of you. On a serious note, this traverse wasn't part of my line and thus didn't get cleaned, so probably has choss on it still. Heads up.