Fun mixed line just right of See Dick Fly. Takes an engaging, well proctected face with a crack running through it to a steeper head wall and crux climbing. This route, like all established by our group, was established ground up, without chalk, no previewing, and no hooks.
In the corridor on the far right side of the main wall, just right of See Dick Fly and left of Jay Smith Appreciation Route.
A set of wires and cams to .75" is all you'll need for gear. Rappel anchor in place on top.
Feb 11, 2014
Sport wanks take note: it is possible to avoid the crack start to this one by beginning on the 10d and moving right to clip the first bolt on Gutta following an easy crack traverse; this keeps the pro all bolted but definitely changes the nature of the route. Call it Keep It Fly on your 8a.nu account and know that I am making fun of you. On a serious note, this traverse wasn't part of my line and thus didn't get cleaned, so probably has choss on it still. Heads up.