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Keene Valley Region

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Backwater Wall 
Barkeater Cliff, The 
Beer Walls 
Chapel Pond Slab 
Creature Wall, The 
Hurricane Crag 
Jewels and Gems 
King Wall, The 
Lower Washbowl Cliffs 
Roaring Brook Falls 
Rooster Comb Mtn 
Shipton's Arete 
Spanky's Area 
Spider's Web, The 
Tanager Face 
Tilman's Arete 
Typhoon Wall 
Upper Washbowl Cliff 
White Water Walls 

Keene Valley Region 


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Location: 44.14055, -73.74655 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 396,621
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Taino on Jan 24, 2007
Forecast:
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Chance of a Thunderstorm
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77° | 55°
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74° | 54°
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73° | 55°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
76° | 53°
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Views of Upper and Lower Washbowl, Creature Walls ...

Description 

Home to the greatest concentration of climbs in the Adirondacks. The rock here is anorthosite - an unusual rock in that it's relatively rare, and is formed in ways that scientists don't fully understand. We call it "granite" - more to the point, exfoliating granite.


Getting There 

Take I-87 North to Exit 30 (way the heck up there); make a right at the end of the exit ramp, and start looking around. You'll come upon Chapel Pond, Emperor Slab, and a few others in short order.


141 Total Routes


['4 Stars',24],['3 Stars',53],['2 Stars',50],['1 Star',14],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',38],['5.7',17],['5.8',24],['5.9',13],['5.10',31],['5.11',8],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Keene Valley Region:
Empress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 7 pitches, 865'   Chapel Pond Slab
Regular Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 700'   Chapel Pond Slab
North Country Club Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Jewels and Gems
Tilman's Arete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Tilman's Arete
Labatt-Ami   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Beer Walls
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   Hurricane Crag
Rockaholic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Beer Walls
Mr. Clean   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Barkeater Cliff
Frosted Mug   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 90'   Beer Walls
Partition   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Upper Washbowl Cliff
Slim Pickins   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Spider's Web
Blacksmith   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Beer Walls
On The Loose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Spider's Web
Esthesia   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Spider's Web
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Beer Walls
TR   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Spider's Web
Drop, Fly, or Die   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Spider's Web
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Spider's Web
It's Only Entertainment   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Spider's Web
Zabba   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Spider's Web
Browse More Classics in Keene Valley Region

Featured Route For Keene Valley Region
rapping off after leading this classic route

North Country Club Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NY : Adirondacks : ... : Jewels and Gems
A hand crack to climb time and time again.NCCC is the first route you encounter when you get up to the cliff. It doesn't get much more obvious that this--jam the low angle hand crack to the top, passing a large, unstable blocky roof to the right. The crux comes at about 2/3 height where a few high feet and some trust in the friction gods gets you to a bucket and great feet. For the anchor: Either sling the tree WITH YOUR OWN cordelette and belay your second up, or lower off. (Note: The tre...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Comments on Keene Valley Region Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 30, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

I climbed south of Lake Placid in mid 1980's. the cliff was sectional south or central and the north side uphill and shorter. its three pitches high and nothing moderate on it. Shim and I crossed a fast moving river of rocks for footing to get there and crossed river north of cliff. the route we attempted was central first pitch was barn door moves with difficult protection placements on hard sustained 5.10 and the only way up it trad to tree ledge. the second pitch was two choices corner crack on the right and face crack left. I did the corner crack another 5.10a or 5.9 to tree ledge. third pitch was crack and not done because night was coming. We went down to road direct and went through moss and tree topped giant boulder field to river. River here was a deep pool and swimming spot just below pullout where we parked our car. its not visible at the parking area. I looked at many areas here and can't find this ledge. we went to it because of it size and reasonable distance from road, probably route 87. Please tell me where we climbed.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 2, 2014

Some aspects of your description match Moss Cliff. Actually, I can think of no other 3-pitch-high cliff with a river crossing.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 5, 2014

thanks Jim. I look at moss cliff and its distinguishable.