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Keene Valley Region

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Backwater Wall 
Barkeater Cliff, The 
Beer Walls 
Chapel Pond Slab 
Creature Wall, The 
Hurricane Crag 
Jewels and Gems 
King Wall, The 
Lower Washbowl Cliffs 
Roaring Brook Falls 
Rooster Comb Mtn 
Shipton's Arete 
Spanky's Area 
Spider's Web, The 
Tanager Face 
Tilman's Arete 
Typhoon Wall 
Upper Washbowl Cliff 
White Water Walls 

Keene Valley Region 


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Location: 44.14055, -73.74655 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 403,986
Administrators: Jim Lawyer, Chris Duca, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Taino on Jan 24, 2007  with updates from Dylan Randall
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Views of Upper and Lower Washbowl, Creature Walls ...

Description 

Home to the greatest concentration of climbs in the Adirondacks. The rock here is anorthosite - an unusual rock in that it's relatively rare, and is formed in ways that scientists don't fully understand. We call it "granite" - more to the point, exfoliating granite.


Getting There 

Getting There
Take I-87 North to Exit 30 (way the heck up there); make a LEFT at the end of the exit ramp, and follow Rt 73 as it winds up a gradual hill. Roughly 2.5 miles after passing through the confusion that is malfunction junction (Route 9 branching off Route 73), you will arrive at the pull off for Spanky's area. Shortly after comes the Chapel Pond Slabs (absolutely can't miss them towering over the road), and in a matter of seconds, you'll reach Chapel Pond itself. This is the heart of the Keene Valley Region.


Climbing Season


142 Total Routes


['4 Stars',23],['3 Stars',56],['2 Stars',50],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',38],['5.7',17],['5.8',24],['5.9',14],['5.10',31],['5.11',8],['5.12',8],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Keene Valley Region:
Empress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 7 pitches, 865'   Chapel Pond Slab
Regular Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 700'   Chapel Pond Slab
North Country Club Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Jewels and Gems
Tilman's Arete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   Tilman's Arete
Labatt-Ami   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Beer Walls
Quadrophenia AKA Bara Bara   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   Hurricane Crag
Rockaholic   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Beer Walls
Mr. Clean   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   The Barkeater Cliff
Frosted Mug   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 90'   Beer Walls
Partition   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Upper Washbowl Cliff
Slim Pickins   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Spider's Web
Blacksmith   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   Beer Walls
On The Loose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Spider's Web
Esthesia   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Spider's Web
Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Beer Walls
TR   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   The Spider's Web
Drop, Fly, or Die   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Spider's Web
Fear and Loathing in Keene Valley   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Spider's Web
It's Only Entertainment   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   The Spider's Web
Zabba   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   The Spider's Web
Browse More Classics in Keene Valley Region

Featured Route For Keene Valley Region
Near the top of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater Cliffs in Adirondack Park NY.

Mr. Clean 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  NY : Adirondacks : ... : The Barkeater Cliff
What a way to be greeted by this cliff. Mr. Clean is the clean right-facing dihedral that marks the top of the climbers trail to the cliff, and it is a great way to get the day started, finish off the day, or try your hand and placing gear if you are eager to break into the grade. This route is as obvious as they come--climb the corner through a semi-technical stemming section about midway up the corner. Get a great rest on phenomenally featured rock at about 3/4 of the way, and finish up by ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NY

Comments on Keene Valley Region Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jun 30, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 

I climbed south of Lake Placid in mid 1980's. the cliff was sectional south or central and the north side uphill and shorter. its three pitches high and nothing moderate on it. Shim and I crossed a fast moving river of rocks for footing to get there and crossed river north of cliff. the route we attempted was central first pitch was barn door moves with difficult protection placements on hard sustained 5.10 and the only way up it trad to tree ledge. the second pitch was two choices corner crack on the right and face crack left. I did the corner crack another 5.10a or 5.9 to tree ledge. third pitch was crack and not done because night was coming. We went down to road direct and went through moss and tree topped giant boulder field to river. River here was a deep pool and swimming spot just below pullout where we parked our car. its not visible at the parking area. I looked at many areas here and can't find this ledge. we went to it because of it size and reasonable distance from road, probably route 87. Please tell me where we climbed.

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 2, 2014

Some aspects of your description match Moss Cliff. Actually, I can think of no other 3-pitch-high cliff with a river crossing.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 5, 2014

thanks Jim. I look at moss cliff and its distinguishable.