Keel Haul  5.13

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.13 [details] FA:  Topher Donahue and Tommy Caldwell New Route:  Yes Season:  summer Submitted By:  topher donahue on Dec 2, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Topo for Yard Arms, Etch-A-Sketch, and Keel Haul.

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Description 

Awesome, wild trad climbing. This is the hardest of the trilogy of 5.13 routes on this wall. The easiest of the 5.13 routes is the first hard pitch of Keel Haul, and then step right to the second hard pitch of Yard Arms. For the crux of Keel Haul, follow the thin crack above the belay into a roof feature, then move left at a fixed nut onto the improbable steep orange headwall.

Protection 

Take extra cams thin to hand size. After moving left for the crux, veer right to a fixed Loweball and knifeblades in an alcove, then back left on runout 5.11 to the top. Bring a red (#4) Metolius three-cam, or similar, for key protection after the crux and lots of long draws.