The second route from the left on the wall. The left-most, Welcome Mat, is behind a tree.Fun climb, though frustrating at times (especially on lead) because there are so many features in the rock, you don't know which ones are good, or where exactly to go. The climbing involves lots of leaning from side to side to make slopers into friendly holds. Both a guidebook and my climbing partner describe it as _pumpy, technical, and sustained_ no arguments from me.
Six bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Sport climbing at its simplest.
|By Wilcher Aaron|
Oct 4, 2005
Like Welcome Mat to the left, this climb employs "sporty" older school bolting techniques.
Im going to project this thing. I got stopped at the third bolt, where a bouldery sequence left me on a bad sloper to clip from. A higher, thin undercling pinch was the only other thing I saw. STOPPED.
If Uncle Remus is 11a, this felt more like 11+. Comments?
From: Oakland CA
Mar 18, 2007
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Here's some comments.
Yes, the route felt much harder than .11a. This was one of the dirtiest, most unpleasant, poorly bolted climbs I've ever done. Seriously.
Even bad routes often have a little something redeeming, but not this one. bad holds, dirty holds, more lichen than I thought possible, pulling up into a tub where there was some recent rockfall, uninteresting movement, bolts in the wrong locations.
After I lowered my partner he commented that the route should be stripped, the bolts chopped, and the lichen allowed to completely envelop this crappy route.
Worst route I've done at the grotto, bar none. If you want to climb it, look for the area with the most lichen on the wall. Proceed up, and attempt to enjoy yourself.