|187 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10d [details]|
|FA: ||Josh Morris and Kat Uppakham, 7/2001|
|Season: ||Gets mostly shade|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 27, 2009|
Climbing in the Archway
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
A surprisingly good climb for the path it takes, but somewhat awkward up top, preventing it from being a truly great climb.
Start off past the first 2 bolts for a starter crux (10c/d) and then up easy territory for a short distance on big interesting holds. Climb up and right in increasingly difficult positions to reach up and through a bulge crossing a tufa (10d), and then reach again to get up into a corner to the right of the tufa (10c/d), and then up the awkward corner to the top. Many climbers find that the last bolt ends up behind them and hard to clip while leading or following. Clip the 2 bolt anchor and lower off.
This route is the second route inside the archway, just left of Sandbag It climbs up through the initial bulge and into the cave on tufas, through a passage and out right under a huge tufa into a right facing, awkward corner for a big finish.
10 bolts and 2 rope threads to a 2 bolt anchor. The route can not be easily cleaned except by following it.
Erin Babich approaching the cruxy bulge.