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Kawakawa Bay

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Bluff, The 
Cracks Wall 
Odyssey Wall 
Point, The 

Kawakawa Bay 


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Location: -38.6619, 175.86571 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,936
Administrators: Cameron Fraser, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Corona on Jun 27, 2011
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View down The Point and Odyssey wall, from Sidewin...

Description 

Kawakawa Bay is probably the best crag in the North Island featuring a good range of sport, trad and mixed routes that will appeal to climbers of all levels. If you donít find something that appeals to you here, youíre probably in the wrong sport! At the eastern end of the Bay stands a number or rhyolite cliffs towering over the lake's blue waters with routes up to 3 pitches in length on excellent quality rock. The Bay still has many lines added to it every year, and there is no doubt that this will continue for years to come as only a fraction of the possible routes here have been established. Kawakawa Bay has the highest concentration of easy trad climbs in the North Island and is a great place to learn to climb on gear.

There is a small grassy campsite on the shore of the bay that is free to use. It has basic facilities like a long drop toilet and a newly constructed shelter. Be sure to hang your food in trees (prussic cord is great for this) unless you want rats to eat it for you. They have been known to chew their way through tents and packs to get to food, you have been warned! At times you will be the only people in the campsite, giving it a wilderness feel, at other times there are dozens of boats parked in the bay and mountain bikers/ hikers galore (by New Zealand standards anyway).

Definitely worth a visit.

The Bluff, Kawakawa Bay
The Bluff, Kawakawa Bay

Odyssey wall, Kawakawa Bay
Odyssey wall, Kawakawa Bay

Pitch 3 belay ledge, Sidewinder
Pitch 3 belay ledge, Sidewinder


Getting There 

The Kawakawa Bay Walkway starts from Nisbet terrace in Kinloch. The walk takes around 2 hours staring from the western side of Whangamata bay then following the peninsula out and over to Kawakwawa bay. Water taxis can also be chartered from Kinloch if you don't want to walk in. They cost arround $80 for 4 people. Another option is to kayak in from Kinloch which is also much quicker than walking.


Topos 

A free topo is availible from the popular freeclimb website (www.freeclimb.co.nz) however it is often out of date due to new development. The New Zealand Alpine Club website often has updates featuring the new routes (alpineclub.org.nz). At one stage a guidebook was produced however this is currently out of print and does not feature the latest development. A comprehensive all inclusive printed guidebook including all new development is slated for release in the future.


35 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',5],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',14],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kawakawa Bay:
High Hopes   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   The Point
Browse More Classics in Kawakawa Bay

Featured Route For Kawakawa Bay
The Odyssey

The Odyssey 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c  New Zealand : North Island : ... : Odyssey Wall
Super classic, one of the best Trad climbs in the North Island.Pitch 1 (17/5.9) 30mClimb up easier ground to the obvious cave. Trad Belay in cavePitch 2 (18/5.10a) 30mEmbrace the exposure as you climb out of the bottomless chimney to the end of the cave roof. From here traverse along a system of ledges until you reach a break/weakness in the roof. Construct a trad anchor here.Pitch 3 (22/5.11a) 20mClimb through the break in the roof (crux) until you get past the overhang. Easier ground to top. T...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Kawakawa Bay Slideshow Add Photo
Stunning views of the bay from the top of the bluff, best reached by climbing Sex Panther
Stunning views of the bay from the top of the bluf...
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By Cameron Fraser
Administrator
Mar 6, 2013

Kawakawa bay update on recent development (Feb 2013)

https://alpineclub.org.nz/donation/kawakawa-bay-pdf-download

By Cameron Fraser
Administrator
Jun 20, 2013

Printed guidebook available alpineclub.org.nz/product/kawakawa-bay-booklet. Between this and the online update it covers most of the routes at K-bay