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Elevation: 1,202 ft
GPS: -38.6619, 175.86571
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Shared By: Ryan Haeseley on Jun 27, 2011
Admins: Cameron Fraser

Description Suggest change

Kawakawa Bay is probably the best crag in the North Island featuring a good range of sport, trad and mixed routes that will appeal to climbers of all levels. If you don’t find something that appeals to you here, you’re probably in the wrong sport! At the eastern end of the bay stands a number or rhyolite cliffs towering over the lake's blue waters. Most routes are 1-3 pitches, although some are longer. The Bay still has many lines added to it every year, and there is no doubt that this will continue for years to come as only a fraction of the possible routes here have been established. Good rock quality and a large number of easy trad routes makes this a great place to learn to climb on gear.

There is a small grassy campsite on the shore of the bay that is free to use. It has basic facilities like a long drop toilet and a newly constructed shelter. Be sure to hang your food in trees (prussic cord is great for this) unless you want rats to eat it for you. They have been known to chew their way through tents and packs to get to food, you have been warned! At times you will be the only people in the campsite, giving it a wilderness feel, at other times there are dozens of boats parked in the bay and mountain bikers/ hikers galore (by New Zealand standards anyway).

Definitely worth a visit.

The Bluff, Kawakawa Bay
Odyssey wall, Kawakawa Bay
Pitch 3 belay ledge, Sidewinder

Getting There Suggest change

The Kawakawa Bay Walkway starts from Nisbet terrace in Kinloch. The walk takes around 2 hours staring from the western side of Whangamata bay then following the peninsula out and over to Kawakwawa bay. Water taxis can also be chartered from Kinloch if you don't want to walk in. They cost arround $80 for 4 people. Another option is to kayak in from Kinloch which is also much quicker than walking.

Topos

Suggest change
Guidebook Rock Deluxe North features a good seletion of the climbs at Kawakawa, but for a more comprehensive list refer to freeclimb.co.nz

58 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Kawakawa Bay

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
High Hopes
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
The Gecko Groove
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Sidewinder
Sport 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Hopes Point
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
The Gecko Groove Cracks Wall
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sidewinder Point
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Kawakawa Bay »

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