This is a somewhat large grouping of several smaller crags. The rock here is extremely pocketed and is a good representation of the extreme of what the Frankenjura is about: pumpy pocket pulling.
From Nuremberg, take the A9 north towards Berlin and get off on Exit 47. Head towards Hormersdorf and take the first left before you get into the village towards Wallsdorf. Continue through Wallsdorf to Rupprechtstegen. When you get there and the road reaches a T-intersection, turn left towards Velden. Continue driving through Velden, keeping to the right (the road following the river). After leaving Velden, you will drive a short distance before you see the buildings of Rothenbruck, and before you get to them you will see a bridge over the river on your right and a sign pointing to Engenthal. Cross the bridge and head to the right towards Grünreuth. 1800m after the sign indicating the end of Engenthal or 1100m after the street turns into a dirt road, there's a cut back area where you can park your car on the left near a sign for the Zimmerbergwände. Park here. Walking directions are given on the following area descriptions.
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Gummitwist mit dem Antichrist 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Europe : Germany : ... : Bärnhofer Wand 1
Much like the situation with "Biographie" and "Realization", this route seems to have some discussion going on about who did it and what it's called. Unfortunately, "Gummitwist" is painted on the wall, so that name is what I'm putting as the official name. But according to www.klettern.frankenjura.com/php3/select_route.php3?id=5-05->>> the route is called Moni und kein Ende and was established by Peter Müller in 1986.Anyway, classic pocket pulling for 70 feet. What more could you ask fo...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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