This is a somewhat large grouping of several smaller crags. The rock here is extremely pocketed and is a good representation of the extreme of what the Frankenjura is about: pumpy pocket pulling.
From Nuremberg, take the A9 north towards Berlin and get off on Exit 47. Head towards Hormersdorf and take the first left before you get into the village towards Wallsdorf. Continue through Wallsdorf to Rupprechtstegen. When you get there and the road reaches a T-intersection, turn left towards Velden. Continue driving through Velden, keeping to the right (the road following the river). After leaving Velden, you will drive a short distance before you see the buildings of Rothenbruck, and before you get to them you will see a bridge over the river on your right and a sign pointing to Engenthal. Cross the bridge and head to the right towards Grünreuth. 1800m after the sign indicating the end of Engenthal or 1100m after the street turns into a dirt road, there's a cut back area where you can park your car on the left near a sign for the Zimmerbergwände. Park here. Walking directions are given on the following area descriptions.
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Featured Route For Katzenlöcher
Moralapostel 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Europe : Germany : ... : Bärnhofer Wand 1
For me the crux was hanging the rope in the pigtail! This pumpy climb tackles some of the most overhanging rock on this face, and as with the two to the left, you get a bit of a rest before the overhang begins, which is awesome. This route also offers the opportunity to practice a bit more technique than just pocket pulling. Though the climbing is mostly on big pockets, the first bolt is very high and takes a bit of mind control to get to. To provide a little extra security, you could try bringi...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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