L to R R to L Alpha
A different flavor of limestone climbing than what you usually get in the Frankenjura. Here, pockets are very seldom. Climbs predominantly ascend crimps and slopers, unless you're following one of the crack lines. Also, due to the lack of features, crack climbing here can actually be enjoyable as the walls of the cracks are pretty smooth, making for nice jamming. And even though there are cracks here, a set of quickdraws is all you'll need because they're all bolted.
From Nürnberg, drive north on the A73 to Bamberg. Change over onto the A70 towards Bayreuth/Berlin. Take the Scheßlitz exit (Exit 18) and turn left to drive under the Autobahn. Drive past Burgellern and Ehrl and into Stübig. In Stübig, the road forks and you need to take the left fork. Drive uphill and where the road takes it's first sharp turn (hairpin) go left onto the dirt road. Drive down this for 70m and park on the right.
Browse More Classics in Katzenbuckel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Katzenbuckel:
Südwestkante (SW Arete) 5.9 Sport, 55 feet
Rocky on the Catwalk 5.9 Sport, 75 feet
Die Sucht der Träumer 5.11 Sport, 65 feet
Featured Route For Katzenbuckel
Die Sucht der Träumer 5.11 International : Europe : ... : Katzenbuckel
A very good, very difficult slab climb almost entirely on small crimps. Unfortunately, the crux hold is a bit polished, but you should be able to hold on and make the move statically if you have your feet in the right spot.Just climb straight up through the bolts, taking care not to stray too far right or left onto a different route.The name means "The Addiction of the Dreamer"....[more] Browse More Classics in International