Katsaplias  5.11b/c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.11b/c [details] FA:  George Ermeides, George Zavouras, 2002 Submitted By:  Top Rope Hero on Oct 17, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Feona on the Katsaplias jug, contemplating the cru...

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Description 

Means: "a cat distilled from the sap of a lias tree."

Excellence on edges. Pull through sequency seams and lift on micro ledges until you land the milk jug about 3/4 of the way up. Welcome to today's crux: reach/stretch/shoulder lift/throw to an awful awful potato chip or fall in shame and walk on home, boy.

Wafer thin after dinner climbers can cheat the crux using heinous, off-camber intermediate crimpers. Fatties just have to (wo)man up and dyno that mutha. Three star brilliance either way.

Location 

Middle of the left (south) main wall of Symplegades. Just a couple of climbs to the right of the obvious "Homo Sapiens." Marked in blue paint.

Protection 

Thirteen-ish draws, some balls, and a fresh katsaplias or two. Two-bolt/1 'biner anchor finishes the deal.