Sure to become a North Shore classic.
Start on side-pull tufas with a small sapling at face height. Climb through friable hollow rock to the first bolt and the sandy ledge. Continue straight up through excellent pockets and a thin edge to the tufas. Some interesting features here including a pocket with a mono-suitcase handle. The crux comes at the top of the tufas, making a left hand dead-point to a large pocket off of two thin slopey crimps. Juggy pockets to the finish after that.
Dead center of the wall. Look for the tufas halfway up. Left of the obvious cave of Mossatopia.
|By Adam Leedy|
From: Austin, TX
Sep 10, 2012
Sent this second go and it really is a fantastic climb.
That said, the consensus at the crag was that this will either get harder as it cleans up and holds break (making it a solid 12a) or will be down-graded to 11d in future prints of the book.
From: Austin, Texas
Jul 9, 2014
Regardless of the grade, this is a great route with a variety of holds.
Jul 20, 2014
Initially, I'd thought the tufas were gonna be pinchtastic. However, I ended up using holds on the left tufa as side pulls- better on the left at the bottom (right bottom is decent too) and the very top right, which I used to clip the 4th bolt.
From the tufas I veered left. There's a tennis ball sized sloper which is nice as an intermediate (or skipped) to a crimp shelf and pocket, to which I go up and a little further left to a hold that is shared with "the stain", the route next door.
It's a really cool problem that can be done a million different ways, which are all equally as awesome. Definitely a must do if you're at Mossy wall!