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Unsorted Routes:

Katey's Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 8/2000 Katey Blumenthal, Paul Duval, Karen Hargrove and Cindy Tolle
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,701
Submitted By: joelhagan on Apr 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Jugs leading Katey's Route...


Katey's Route starts just to the right of Lander Turkey Shoot on the opposite side of the Gully. It is an obvious line of bolts going up a nice face with crystals in all the right places


The route tops out at the anchors for the first pitch of the Retable Route. Use these anchors and rap down the south side.


This is a nice bolted route with 6 or 7 bolts, take more quickdraws just in case. After the 5.8 face ends there is about 30 feet of run-out 5.2 climbing on nice big holds. It is possible to sling at least one crystal, but by the time you do you realize it would be easier to just keep going.

Photos of Katey's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Brenda finishes up top of Katey's Route -- easy, well-featured climbing on the run out portion.
Brenda finishes up top of Katey's Route -- easy, w...
Route just right of Turkey Shoot and as seen from the summit of Inner Course. The bolt anchors are on the middle of the three small knobs and the rap anchors/chains are on the knob furthest to the right of the three.
BETA PHOTO: Route just right of Turkey Shoot and as seen from ...
Anchors for Katey's Route.   <br />Rapping back down Katey's Route from here would take a 70M rope (or make sure to tie knots in the end of a 60M rope).  However, you can probably rap down the right side from this anchor and it would be a shorter rappel since you avoid the long run out "hump" at the top of Katey's Route
BETA PHOTO: Anchors for Katey's Route.
Rapping back down Kat...
Bolts on Katey's Route shown in blue.  It's run out above the last bolt to the anchor, but it's very easy low-class five climbing about 10 feet above the top bolt.  A climber is simul-rapping off of Lander's Turkey Shoot on the top left of the photo while the other climber is simul-rapping down the other side of the fin.
BETA PHOTO: Bolts on Katey's Route shown in blue. It's run ou...
Anne Meyer belaying Paul Huebner on his 3rd lead of Katey's Route. (Photo by Lenore Sobota)
Anne Meyer belaying Paul Huebner on his 3rd lead o...

Comments on Katey's Route Add Comment
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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My wife just led this route yesterday. Several variations that you can put together make this quite fun. Only 5 bolts on the route with the top being quite run out... but the final 45 feet is very easy.
By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Sep 30, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Just led this climb on 9/28. It was a fun climb, but the first 15 feet of run-out above the 5th bolt is pretty vertical and I believe still consists of 5.7 moves. The angle than eases and is quite juggy the rest of the way up to the nice anchor bolts.
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I had a hold break off on me on this route which was exciting. I felt like it required some pretty delicate movements with a lot of high stepping.
By spn
From: Sioux Falls,SD
Apr 19, 2010

If you do the next two pitches and top this one out it is most definately worth it. above kateys there are no bolts but reasonable pro and one ok? piton. on the 3rd pitch there is one 5.9 move just above that there piton but thats just my take on it.use classic crack rap on the north side.
By joelhagan
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 21, 2010

You can also do the two pitches above Katey's Route as a single pitch with creative use of slings to alleviate rope drag. The protection at the crux is good with one very committing/fun move. Gotta love 5.3 Conn climbs!