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Black Widow Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bands of Gold S 
Black Widow Recess T 
Caught in the Web S 
Center T 
Consilience S 
Dracula S 
F**k You S 
Far Right, The T 
Fire Down Below, The T 
Gyromancy S 
Kate Moss S 
Mordred S 
Pipe Dreams S 
Resonator S 
Right Side T 
Right Side? aka Bong Session T 
SMERSH T 
Smoke Down S 
Specter T 
Wired T 

Kate Moss 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,939
Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on Sep 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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BETA PHOTO: Too early in the season? We could see people with...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route lies on the left-side of the rock, just left of "Consilence". This is a long pitch and a 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground...Eds. a 70 doesn't get you to the ground either. Tie a knot in the end of the rope and have your belayer walk up and left so you can reach the ground. Or trail a rope and rappel off. Nice face and slab climbing is the highlight of this route. There is a fair amount of moss on the route, so those who don't like a little dirt might want to stay away. The route has a alpine feel and with more ascents will get cleaner. A nice warm-up for the the harder routes on this wall.

Protection 

Fifteen bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor. A 60 or 70 meter rope will not get you to the ground. Be careful!!!


Photos of Kate Moss Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Amato starting up Kate Moss.  The climbing is superb; far better than it looks!
Mike Amato starting up Kate Moss. The climbing is...
Kate Moss
BETA PHOTO: Kate Moss
Changing into dry shoes for an early season ascent.
Changing into dry shoes for an early season ascent...
James at the anchor.
James at the anchor.
Looking down the route.
Looking down the route.
Marga Powell moving left into the crux section halfway up the pitch.
Marga Powell moving left into the crux section hal...
Mike R high on the no-longer-mossy route. The clean, diamond-shaped slab to his right is the crux of Consilience.
Mike R high on the no-longer-mossy route. The clea...
Starting the moves at the diagonal finger crack. It feels a bit like cheating here, climbing left of the bolt.
Starting the moves at the diagonal finger crack. I...
Low on the route.
Low on the route.
Finshing the moves at the diagonal finger crack.
Finshing the moves at the diagonal finger crack.
Nice on a hot day with no snow!
Nice on a hot day with no snow!
High up on the last difficult moves.
High up on the last difficult moves.
Elizabeth on Kate Moss.
Elizabeth on Kate Moss.

Comments on Kate Moss Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 14, 2014
By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Jun 7, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

What a great route! Excellent, sustained, varied movement over a long pitch. Nice shade for a hot summer day, with a reasonably comfortable belay zone. A 70 meter rope just makes it back down from the anchors. Thanks Vaino and Bob.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Even with the moss, the moves are so good that this is a three-star climb. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top. Bring a 70m rope or two ropes; the pitch is about 130' long.
By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jul 19, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I was put off going to this climb by all the moss talk. If you have to touch any moss, you have wandered off route. This is a fantastic climb. Probably the best sport route of its grade in the canyon. On a hot afternoon, it is a most pleasant location with a natural swamp cooler nearby. Plus, there are two harder routes at the same location. Bring two ropes, or a real loooooong one.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 4, 2004

Still a bit dirty, but intricate, varied and sustained. This is a top-notch pitch!
By S. Kimball
Jun 27, 2005

Perhaps a bit of mass hysteria here,unless B and V have a 2nd pitch planned, i'd have left it to the mosses.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Wasn't that much fun. Go Plotinus Wall if you REALLY want to get on some good .10s. Vaino and Bob hit it on the head over there. Chore Boy and Mr. Sandman are excellent!
By Brendan Leonard
From: Denver, Hollarado
May 30, 2008

I had a blast on this route. Lots of fun moves, and maybe most of the offending moss is gone now? Whatever. We used a 70-meter rope and still didn't reach the ground -- my partner lowered me to the end of the rope and I untied from about 5 feet up, where there was a good stance.
By slim
Administrator
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Excellent 5.8 or maybe 5.9 climbing with good bolting, not too close together and good clipping stances. A very nice, long pitch with great climbing. 70m just gets you off, so pay attention.
By crankenstein
Sep 28, 2008

A very good and long pitch. And a good warm up for the other great climbs here. It seems that this area is somewhat overlooked as the climbs are excellent and the competition for routes is nil. There is a quick link on the 3rd bolt about 30 feet up which allows one to rappel from the anchors and then pull the rope and rap again from the 3rd bolt. It looked like a much better set up for descending could easily be set up by putting a double anchor 3 bolts down from the top and then extending the upper 3 bolts into another 60 meter pitch. Curious since the descent takes away from the quality of the route.
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Aug 14, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

There is very little moss on this route. It has cleaned up well. Very consistent climbing with almost no gimmies.
By Greg Talling
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 23, 2014

I found some climbing shoes at the base of Kate Moss. If they are yours, send me a message. Greg
By Vincent K
From: Boulder, CO
2 days ago

Climbed this yesterday. It's nice and long. We wanted to summit the whole tower, so I led up above the anchors. You can get a good cam in the undercling above the anchors, but that's pretty much the last good piece. Further up, there's a shitty bolt that I don't trust - maybe an old Star Dryvin that wasn't driven in all the way with the nail bent over. Even above the bolt, I didn't see gear opportunities so I down climbed. The climbing wasn't too hard, but all the moss and no pro made it feel sketchy. Looks like it could have been cool had I made it all the way to the large horizontal crack below the roof systems. Anyone tried it?