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Armadillo, The T 
Chimney, The T 
Cilley-Barber T 
North Basin - Headwall Route T 
North Basin - the Big Corner Complete T 
Pamola 5.0 T 
Pamola Ice Cliffs 
Pamola IV Ridge T 
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Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,260'
Location: 45.9045, -68.9239 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 81,290
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 20, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: A view of the North Basin from the Chimney Pond Tr...

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit


The Northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail is Mt. Katahdin at 5260ft.

There are many fifth-class multi-pitch climbs that ascend this peak and the various other peaks around it.

There are even more ice/mixed winter time routes up this mountain.


Getting There 

To get to the mountain follow the Appalachain Trail!
Katahdin is just north of Millinocket, ME, in Baxter State Park. There are detailed directions and insructions for winter climbing on the state park web site: baxterstateparkauthority.com/ The park is awesome in the winter and offers full bore, hard alpine climbing as well as shorter, more friendly ice climbs. Expect to spend two days coming in and out as you are required to stay at the Roaring Brook Campground on your first and last night in the park.

Climbing Season

Weather station 13.8 miles from here

8 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Katahdin:
Cilley-Barber   WI4     Trad, Ice, 7 pitches, 1000'   
The Armadillo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in Katahdin

Featured Route For Katahdin
The Cilley-Barber route is the weakness up the headwall left of center.

Cilley-Barber WI4  ME : Katahdin
This broad snow and ice gulley is the most distinct line in the Chimney Pond Cirque of the Katahdin Massif. When I did it, there was more ice and less snow than usual. The first two pitches are usually ice climbing at NEI2-3. These top out into a large bowl-like snow gulley that continues for the majority of the climb. Simul over some ice bulges and steep snow for a couple hundred of feet. The crux pitch is somewhere around what would be Pitch 9. This pitch can have wind-swept overhanging mushro...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Katahdin Slideshow Add Photo
Katahdin viewed from Chimney Pond on a cold winter morning.
Katahdin viewed from Chimney Pond on a cold winter...
Looking out at the South Basin from near the top of the Chimney Route
Looking out at the South Basin from near the top o...
The famous Knife Edge enshrouded in clouds.  This is a non-technical but very fun ridge walk.  There are a couple of exposed spots that always excite the masses!
The famous Knife Edge enshrouded in clouds. This ...
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond.  Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above c...
The Flatiron (5.7) I haven't climbed it so I can't say much about it but it looks great.
The Flatiron (5.7) I haven't climbed it so I can't...
The Armadillo, the Flatiron, the approach and the moon.
The Armadillo, the Flatiron, the approach and the ...
Armadillo, Flatiron, Black Gullies, Diamond, Cathedrals...based on Rick Wilcox - An Ice Climber's Guide to New England
BETA PHOTO: Armadillo, Flatiron, Black Gullies, Diamond, Cathe...
BETA PHOTO: Cathedrals
The Armadillo (5.7)
The Armadillo (5.7)
Looking back down to Chimney pond and out the valley from near the base of the Chimney Route
Looking back down to Chimney pond and out the vall...
The Tabor wall of Katahdin's north basin.
BETA PHOTO: The Tabor wall of Katahdin's north basin.

Comments on Katahdin Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Apr 28, 2007
In the summer the park rangers will hand out a "Technical Rock Climbing At Katahdin" paper which has general information (basic route descriptions with grades that are not all that helpful.) There is also an informal guide book with photographs and drawn lines of the routes along with descriptions from many of the first ascentionist. Be prepared to show your gear and lay out your intentions to the ranger on duty, who may or may not know something about climbing and may or may not be polite and respectful.
By RhodeIslandJeff
From: Westerly, RI
Feb 17, 2013
On a clear day with little wind the south basin makes for some excellent yodeling.

I would love to see more information on the North Basin.
By burlap submariner
Feb 18, 2013
ideally that wont happen anytime soon. check the log at chimney pond. Keep it to yourself.
By ntableman
Sep 11, 2013
I'd like to hear more info on the Flatiron route. I have been in and out of the park for 35+ years in all season, even snowboarding down off the second cathedral way way back one winter, worked trail crew some, etc... and only recently started to technical climb on Katahdin. We did what we think is Flatiron route - trying to interpret some handwritten notes from the "bible" at the Ranger's station...Anyone have any route notes on this one they want to share?

The bottom line, for those interested, is that the park is remote to begin with and then you are remote while climbing. For people who think the rangers are being stiff, they don't know you from adam, and they are doing their jobs to keep you safe. The part can be really nepotistic, find someone who they know to take you in and then you are golden. It isn't that hard, there are a lot of climbers in NE who know the park...