BETA PHOTO: A view of the North Basin from the Chimney Pond Tr...
|Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit|
The Northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail is Mt. Katahdin at 5260ft.
There are many fifth-class multi-pitch climbs that ascend this peak and the various other peaks around it.
There are even more ice/mixed winter time routes up this mountain. peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=6...
To get to the mountain follow the Appalachain Trail!
Katahdin is just north of Millinocket, ME, in Baxter State Park. There are detailed directions and insructions for winter climbing on the state park web site: baxterstateparkauthority.com/
The park is awesome in the winter and offers full bore, hard alpine climbing as well as shorter, more friendly ice climbs. Expect to spend two days coming in and out as you are required to stay at the Roaring Brook Campground on your first and last night in the park.
Weather station 13.8 miles from here
9 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Katahdin
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Katahdin:
The Chimney 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
WI2 Mod. Snow Trad, Ice, Snow, Grade II
Featured Route For Katahdin
This is a long alpine route requiring most of the day to complete, be sure to get an early start.Walk to the range cabin and cross Chimney pond. Scamble through the snow and rocks to the base of the climb. It is the obvious line between Chimney gully and Cilley-Barber. Itís the big and impressive frozen waterfall.The first pitch (WI3) brings you an ice ledge where you can belay. Then traverse the snow patch to reach the crux of the route: an impressive 45m gully of WI4 (or WI4+ if you go left),...[more] Browse More Classics in ME
From: Concord, NH
Apr 28, 2007
In the summer the park rangers will hand out a "Technical Rock Climbing At Katahdin" paper which has general information (basic route descriptions with grades that are not all that helpful.) There is also an informal guide book with photographs and drawn lines of the routes along with descriptions from many of the first ascentionist. Be prepared to show your gear and lay out your intentions to the ranger on duty, who may or may not know something about climbing and may or may not be polite and respectful.
From: Westerly, RI
Feb 17, 2013
On a clear day with little wind the south basin makes for some excellent yodeling.
I would love to see more information on the North Basin.
By burlap submariner
Feb 18, 2013
ideally that wont happen anytime soon. check the log at chimney pond. Keep it to yourself.
Sep 11, 2013
I'd like to hear more info on the Flatiron route. I have been in and out of the park for 35+ years in all season, even snowboarding down off the second cathedral way way back one winter, worked trail crew some, etc... and only recently started to technical climb on Katahdin. We did what we think is Flatiron route - trying to interpret some handwritten notes from the "bible" at the Ranger's station...Anyone have any route notes on this one they want to share?
The bottom line, for those interested, is that the park is remote to begin with and then you are remote while climbing. For people who think the rangers are being stiff, they don't know you from adam, and they are doing their jobs to keep you safe. The part can be really nepotistic, find someone who they know to take you in and then you are golden. It isn't that hard, there are a lot of climbers in NE who know the park...