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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: C. Griffith, 1979 or ?Charlie Fowler
Page Views: 877
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 11, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Tony Bubb places a piece on Kashmir before steppin...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


Go up the West Ridge past The Cirque of the Cracks. As the trail flattens out, just before reaching the Xanadu area, there is a very small, short section of reasonably solid rock. (See picture) Kashmir is a thin seam & crack that goes for 30' to a large tree, from which you can rappel or find a walk-off.


The protection is reasonable, if placed in the crack and to the left of the crack. Small cams and nuts are the primary gear. The route is short and will only require 3-5 placements.

Photos of Kashmir Slideshow Add Photo
Kashmir and Srinagar.
BETA PHOTO: Kashmir and Srinagar.
Comments on Kashmir Add Comment
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By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Feb 17, 2002

This route may be very short but is very high quality. Cool moves on great stone. No filler. I'd maybe give it two stars. Certainly I'd recommend it to anyone looking for a high quality 5.11 pitch.

By Kirk Woerner
Mar 16, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Good moves. Too bad it's a one move wonder.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004

I thought this was a real difficult lead. It's one of those where you have to put the gear where your fingers are. More fun as a TR.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Dec 11, 2004
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Good pitch, just a little short. The crux is pretty difficult and consists of 2-3 moves. I had a #6 HB offset to protect the crux moves then a yellow Alien in the obvious slot up higher. Those were my only pieces on the pitch. Another nut is possible but takes up your hand hold.

Nov 23, 2006

Curious about the FA attribution because in my 80s guidebook (Rossiter) it says this is a Charlie Fowler route?

Big difference going straight up using only the thin cracks versus moving in from the left up higher. Although contrived, several high quality hard moves in a short length, and a good one to do if all the popular climbs you hiked up for are taken, no waiting lines on this one!

The commitment factor and exposure are high though. Make sure to bring your headlamp.

By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Jan 27, 2008

Passerby: "You know it is crowded when someone is on Kashmir."

By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 27, 2014

I took this climb bat the slung tree and through the dirty dihedral which was actually a little scary but about 5.8. I think it's worth the adventure.