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The Dark Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
27 Tons 
Audition, The 
Beginner's Outing 
Black 'N Dicey 
Black Awareness 
Black Dihedral 
Blank Frank 
Call From Overseas 
Corner Pockets 
Counter Balance 
Crack Happens 
Crack's On Top, The 
Crown of Thorns aka Box Lunch aka Lou Raven's Rest 
Dark Side Roofs 
Eagle has Landed, The 
Eat, Drink, and Beat Larry 
Edge Of Fright 
El Guapo 
Enchanted Porkfist 
Face The Music 
Fat Like Butta 
Fight or Flight 
Go East, Old Man 
Hangers Regained 
I Scare Myself 
Levels of the Game 
Line of Strength 
Missing Hangers 
Muted by Reality 
Plum, The 
Porkus Procurement 
Puddle Of Holes 
Rip It 
Route Fluffer 
Shelf Road Virgin 
Stink Finger 
Stuck in the Middle With You 
Suspender Man 
Teenage Wristband 
Thank Heaven for Little Girls 
Trolling For Holds 
Two Hearts 
U Pump It 
Void Lloyd 
Way We Were, The 
Welcoming, The 
Whisper To A Scream 


YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'
FA: ?
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Sep 17, 2005
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This is the route that climbs the prow left of Teenage Wristband, and right of the popular route formerly known as Box Lunch (now called [something] different in the Knapp guide).

This route is essentially a contrived one-move wonder, involving a height-dependent campus move off of a one-digit two finger pocket to a drilled (or enhanced) mono. This section, at the 3rd bolt, is easily bypassed by stemming into the corner to the right.

I was tempted to give this route the coveted BOMB rating, but the nice upper section redeems this route to one-star caliber. Bypassing the crux by stemming into the corner yields a nice 11+ climb.

The new Knapp guidebook gives this the dubious rating of 12c and awards it 4-stars. My guess is that Fred has not done the route, judging by his quality and difficulty assessment. Van Horn rates it 5.12c/13b due to its height-dependent nature, which is closer to reality. Personally I think it's minimally a V5/6 crux, even with a long wingspan.


7 or 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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