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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterthought TR 
Anduril S,TR 
Art Imitates Life S 
Art of the Pissant S 
Big Kahuna S 
Black Rider S,TR 
Caradhras T 
Cirith Ungol T 
Dimrill Stair T 
Dwarrowdelf T 
Easy Rider S,TR 
Fangorn Crack T,TR 
Fool's Gold S 
Gandalf T 
Glamdring S 
Isengard S 
Karmic Relief S 
Khazaddum S 
Little Bruiser T 
Lord of the Rings S 
Marranon T,TR 
Merryanne TR 
Middle Finger TR 
Nameless Left of Dimrill Stair T,S 
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 
Orange Sunshine S 
Orc T 
Orthanc S 
Out on a Whim T 
Radagast T 
Risky Business T,S 
Rock Wrestling T 
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 
Room With A View T 
Sam I Am S 
Shadowfax T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Slice & Dice T 
Smeagol's Surprise T 
Strider TR 
Strider Face TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Karmic Relief 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,382
Submitted By: mschlocker on Nov 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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Myself gettin through the crux of Karmic Relief. 5...

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


A reachy start leads to easier climbing above.


Head up left past the pod on your way up Middle Earth. Just right of the cave/chimney.


Bolts / rap anchor.

Photos of Karmic Relief Slideshow Add Photo
A terrible photo of the start of Karmic Relief.  C...
A terrible photo of the start of Karmic Relief. C...
At the crux of Karmic relief
At the crux of Karmic relief

Comments on Karmic Relief Add Comment
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By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 5, 2007

A right variation follows a crack to the Glamdring anchor. Bring a .75 cam if you want to protect this. I think a smaller cam will work too. The variation goes at a grade much easier than the 10a start of Karmic Relief.
By Elush
From: CA
May 2, 2009

This is the softest 10a I've ever done. Crux is at the start, get on it and have some fun. Also the variation is not nearly as aesthetic as the bolted route imo.
By Michael Clark
From: Irvine, CA
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree, this is the easiest 5.10 I have ever been on. More like a 5.9. But regardless it is a good climb with a tricky beginning.
By Johnny Ink
From: Portland
Sep 10, 2011

Today was my first time on Karmic Relief. I lead it after watching a friend complete it before me. I probably wouldn't have been able to do it without the beta. Anyhow, did you guys use a Gaston to get up the crux? That was the gnarliest move for me to do. It felt pretty awkward. The route did get way easier after the crux though. I'd rate the crux a 10a and the rest of the climb a 9.
By ChaseLeoncini
From: San Diego, California
Aug 28, 2012

As of August 27th, 2012, there is a large chest size boulder near the top that is coming loose. This boulder has a flake handhold that many may want to grab to pull themselves up over the ledge. Do not pull on this flake! There are other holds to grab. . . . Other than that great route. :) Be safe!
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